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Expert
 
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | My coach developed a leak in the passenger side exhaust manifold due to a section of the gasket blowing out. I now have a new gasket and other parts on the way, but in the course of doing searchs to locate various sources of the parts Google also picked up some discussions on various forums as to the proper way to install the exhaust manifold studs on a 440. A few of the methods used and recommended as being the "only right way" are: install using high temperatue loktite, install using never seize, install using Teflon tape. One person installed finger tight expecting the stud to be tightened when the nut was tightened. In about two weeks I will be installing mine. What procedure should I use to install the new exhaust manifold studs and why should I use that procedure? Thank you, |
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Veteran
Location: Canton, (Sixes) GA | Stephen;
Have you received a definitive answer or came to a conclusion on this? I have no idea, but thought at least you have time to remedy before your 4K plus journey.. Want to see shiny exhaust gaskets in MO... I'll show you my latest broken axle if you will show me your blown gasket.. Denny |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | The definative answer is that there are a lot of ways to do it. So long as it doesn't leak, I guess it doesn't matter. We can have "show and tell" in MO! That is the biggest thing that still needs to be done before the trip, but I keep coming up with more little things. Oh well, when the date arrives I hit the road and we fix what ever is left to do in MO and CO. |
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Veteran
Location: Kingsley Michigan | Good morning Stephan and everyone else;
I heard that the studs were oversize, from the factory, on the 3/8-16 (block) side---Don't know if this is true but I used everything from high temp silicone to epoxy to bubblegum and recently---a boiler adhesive---from JRD Industries inc, 882 route 231 north, Claysville, Pa 15323 --JDR-7100 was the product---you must start with clean threads both sides and preheat---(torch) the assembled parts to get them to set---but this is the only one that has wroked. Cost---about $30 for a small can.
I am considering making in my shop a set of oversized ones and will make extra if other owners desire the same---(Like 100pcs)
Happy trails ---sorry I didn't respond sooner---the #8 cylinder is a real bitch to do inside the compartment--Have fun--Barn
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Contributor
Location: Bowling Green Ky. | I have changed exhaust gaskets many times on my coach. The best results for me have been. I replaced all studs, cleaning both male and femal threads (head threads and stud threads). Lock tight male threads, head side. Use two nuts or the long middle spacer nut to tourqe the stud into head. Hold stud with vise grips to remove nut from stud. Use never seize on the manifold side of stud. Use exhaust paste on both sides of gasket and make sure the manifold is true, and hope the head is true. Tourqe to 25-30 ft. lbs. Starting in the middle, alternating to the outer bolts (pull the middle up working your way out). Kind of like smoothing out a piece of tape. Check the tourqe specs with a Chrysler 440 manual. I also put a ball joint in both exhaust pipes to allow the engine to move without putting stress on exhaust manifolds.
I have also found a gasket between exhaust man. and piping that has a metal ring. The bolt pattern is slightly larger, but is easily modified. Napa has them in stock. One more thing that I believe helps is to port your exhaust manifolod to match your gasket. There will be less tendensy to catch the exhaust gas that is escaping with the edge of the exhaust manifold being smaller than the gasket creating a restriction. This will help horsepower and allow the heat to escape easier.
When tourqing manifold, tourge gradualy(10,20,25) ft. lbs. I hope this helps. If there is something anyone has found to work for them please share. |
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Exhaust Manifold Studs - installation