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Veteran
 
Location: Houston, Texas | Hey Guys, I was able to order the rub rail rubber insert for the sides,
but I'm having a hard time finding the rubber molding for the rear
window...help Please 
Rico & Carmen
397
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | So you ordered rub rail insert ?
HOW ABOUT SHARING THE PART NUMBER, UNIT COST, and SOURCE ?
Got any pictures of the rub rail cross section and your new rub rail INSTALLED ?
Thx, Lou #120 |
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Veteran
Location: Houston, Texas | Here's the info for the rub rail insert I found,
they also have Black & White too.
WWW.GREATLAKESSKIPPER.COM
PH: 262-898-1855
stock no. 1034406-4WBB3
Standard 7/8 x 3/8 Inch Brownstone Rigid Boat Rub Rail Gunnel Molding Insert
70' Ft $139.65 plus shipping $61.42
eBay item number: 190604530538
they sell it on 10' ft. increments, but it can be ordered on
a continuous length, on ebay it shows the shipping included,
but the price is a bit higher of course.
Rico & Carmen
397 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Thanks for the info Rico!
Now, find a suitable replacement side window felt/channel/guide for us...lol |
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Veteran
Location: Oslo Norway | Rico
I had a auto glass shop "gluing" the glass directly in to the aluminum frame for my rear window. It turned out really nice and I expect it to last longer than a "new" rubber seal. It will be a little more work if the glass has to be replaced but nothing more than changing the windshield on any modern car.
stay cool
Kjetil
#477 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | If the seal between the alum-frame and the fiberglass is still good, this is what I did with #509 as I figured a replacement gasket was a lost cause.
Clean out all dirt from the window channel where the gasket used to reside - then caulk it with black polyurethane. Wear disposable rubber gloves.
Flatten it out nice with a 1" putty knife. Don't worry if you get a little on the glass; wait till the next day and trim it off with a razor blade.
This works great and only sucks when you break the window and have to get that crap out of there to replace it. Boom done! |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I want to bring this back to the top to double check that the Great Lakes Skipper rub rail material was a good fit? I've got mine pulled off for the structural work I'm doing behind the panels and want to install new (old has shrunk a good 2.5" on each side).
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Veteran
Location: Houston, Texas | measure and cut first, then stick it in hot water for a while until it gets soft,, a helping hand would be required......we didn't have to feed it in from one end to the other it can be pushed in.
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Did you buy the brownstone color or did you get it in black?
Any pictures of the finished product? (send to my email Len.Barron@att.net) Are there any in the albums section?
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | The reason why I'm drilling down on this is that I'm wondering if there was some difference in this from early to late coaches. Measuring my dried out/shrunk down pieces they are larger than the dimensions listed for the 7/8 x 3/8 molding. Mine seem to be closer to the 1 x 1/2 molding listed here:
http://greatlakesskipper.com/taco-metals-v12-0303bka70-black-1-x-1-... |
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Veteran
Location: Houston, Texas | hey Len, I will send you some pictures tomorrow, we used color tan,
the size we order fits great on ours.
Rico & Carmen
1974
# 397.
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Len, you may want to check with West Marine as I believe they also carry the rub rail and it may reduce shipping costs. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | I've got one about 2 miles from me, I'm going to take a couple pieces of mine down there to match what they have and be sure I order the right thing.
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | To be naive, the rub rail is on the exterior about mid way on the sides? Currently black (and shrunk up a little short on my rig)? |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Yes, that's it. It helps when you're moored up against another FMC so they don't bash each other to death.
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Bumper FMC?
Lou posted some pics in the albums |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | So I took a quit ride down to the West Marine store, they had a huge ring of samples of the different "gunnel rub rail moldings",
The link that I listed in the previous post is an exact match (minus the shrinkage) and they seem to have the best price on the 70ft length with it only being $135 shipped.
The West Marine store manager said "you better have a heatgun, a helper, and eat a big bowl of Wheaties cause this stuff sucks to install"...just what I need...another crappy job.. |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | So Len, can I get about a foot of the old crappy black stuff that you are taking out? 489 is painted black and replacing the current black with a brown strip down the side would look like, well, you know. I just want to fill in the shrinkage at the ends. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Hey Len,
See if you can get a inch or two of what West Marine has for the rub rail insert and try it in your FMC at the "end" of one of the metal pieces that has the END CAP.
The stuff I have obtained fits in the groove, BUT ! . . . it is "taller" than the end caps when in place. That is what I have taken pictures of, and was taking a couple more pics to show. There are really only two "makers" (I think) of the rub rail and insert. Taco, which is what West Marine sells, and Barbour Plastics. One inch stuff can be put in the metal piece but ends up even taller than the 7/8" stuff. I hope to post a few more pictures and make a text entry as well tomorrow. But I think I can safely say, I have NOT found anything that fits exactly as the original rub rail insert.
It is pretty warm around here in Aridzona, so the rub rail is fairly pliable to put one side in then push the other side in with a broad "dull" screwdriver about 2 inches at a time. Keep pushing it back tight against the starting point as you work along. More tomorrow with a NEW Rub Rail Insert Topic. Lou #120 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | I was gifted a chunk of the stuff by Jim Black when I met him a few years ago. I decided that instead of fitting two pcs to fill shrinkage at both ends, I'd try and move the entire strip then fill only one larger pc at the aft end of the coach.
Try this, it worked for me: pressure wash the rub rail section to get as much gunk out of the channel as possible. Next, drill a 1/4" hole in one end of the existing rub rail about 1" short of the end at the direction you want to move it.
Then insert a 1/4" round pc of steel - could be a Philips screw driver, drift center-punch; something with a handle is great - and use that as a push/pull tool to drag/move the strip to where you want it. Worked like a hot damn for me.
Good luck!
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | I love it when it works like a hot damn.....lol |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Forgot to add - as many are sensitive about drilling holes in anything FMC - after you're done, fill the hole with black polyurethane or such.
Terry
#846 |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | I shifted mine to one end then just filled in the other end like Terry did except that I didn't drill any holes. Just started at what would be the lead end and, using a screwdriver, just moved it a little at a time in the direction I wanted. I started at the one end and worked my way to the other end and then repeated that until I had it where I wanted it and had it slightly compressed to allow for future shrinkage.
Tedious, but it works if not replacing the entire strip. In any case I would install it slightly compressed to allow for future shrinkage. |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | Do any of these look inserts look right?
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/taco-metals-flexible-vinyl-inserts |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | It appears they sell items 1,3,6 and 7. You are right that a fit test is the only way to know for sure. I was just hoping that someone recognized the profile. I'm curious as I think the manufacturer is Taco and the have some varieties in black (the brown type found above in the thread would look wrong with my color scheme). I'd settle for used if anyone is selling or donating.
Edited by Jrobowen62 2016-07-29 6:11 AM
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | The profile for #1 is correct...the actual size will be the challenge. |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | Thanks Len. The Taco Marine website has more detailed dimensions that I think I can use to figure it out. I can also buy item 1 by the foot and just try it out. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Rob,
I ordered the Taco Metals V12-0303BKA70 Black, it's due in on Monday. I'll post up how it goes. I think it's slighty bigger than the stock stuff but like Lou posted, there doesn't seem to be an exact replacement made anymore (at least not in black). |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taco-Metals-V12-0303BKA70-1Black-Insert-for...
Terry
#846 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Yes, it was a little cheaper from Great Lakes Skipper though. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=127&p...
My hands are aching but I got all my new rub rail molding installed yesterday...be ready for a workout...this stuff is extremely tight even after trimming the backside wings down. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Hey Lenny, your old roof looks like mine; what prep did you do before paint and did you just roll-it? I'm thinking pressure wash, dry and have at er'.
Another good technique for AC removal was (I think) pioneered by the great Red Green, was simply remove all the bolts holding it on then line up the coach about 50 yds from the dumpster and boot-it... then lock up your brakes just before you hit the dumpster and presto - in she goes. Apparently a few clearance lights can be sacrificed in the process but they were likely leaking and needed replacement regardless.
More great work Len!
You going to make the OR. Rally?
Terry
#846 |
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Rear Window Rubber seal part number ?