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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Hi, quick question... If I remove the bolts holding the fan on, will the pulley come with it? I cannot work the old p s belt between the fan & main pulleys to then get it around the fan. Seems like it may be the better solution than trying to force new one thru the space with butter... Is that clearance a common issue? I wouldn't have thought so. Anyway, thanks!  |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Cut the old one off in the mean time, but turns out that my "guaranteed fit" replacement belts (all 5) were nothing of the sort. If anyone happens to be easily enough in a position to recommend easily available replacement belts, would be greatly appreciated also; but not necessary.. Going to cross reference ones that came off (though all markings are worn off of the power steering belt). I'm still stalling with my fan removal, in case anyone has a definitive answer about the pulleys; would rather not have to fight all those nuts inside fan enclosure with a box wrench, if I don't need to. But it looks to me that someone posed that same question on Yahoo groups 7 years ago, and is, evidently, still awaiting a response. Thanks much, in advance, for any suggestions. |
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Elite Veteran
 
Location: Medford, OR | Yes you have to pull the fan/pulley to replace that belt. Even if the fan was installed, I don't think you can even get the small p-steering belt around/over the fan anyway...Just take your old belt to the auto store and have it measured for a new one. The size depends on what pulleys/pump you have on that rig. If I were to give you the #'s off my belt, it may very well not fit your app.
Dan
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Administrator
Location: Colorado Springs, Colorado | i may have a different set up, but have replaced power steering and alternator belts without pulling fan. i just loop belt over first fan blade, and rotate fan to pull belt thru. finding the pivot and tightening bolt on the ps pump is always my challenge. i actually carry a one ton bottle jack to get that side tight.
good luck |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | My fan belts are smaller than power steering went passed fan easily that way, the issue is the lack of clearance in between 2 pulleys to put the new belt on, once past the fan; I guess that comes down to those different sized pulleys that you are talking about. As long as I know fan pulley comes off with fan, I know to proceed that way, and it should not be a problem; other than several hours of bleeding, pleading, crying, cursing... But, now dead in the water til I can get some belts in hand. It seems to be a online specific item, which will take days; and I need it back together ASAP. Anyone agree that it is as simple as bringing old ones to, say, Advance Auto, and have 'em matched up? I thought of it, but on barrier island here, and really don't wanna chase my tail all day, back & forth to the mainland without returning with the belts. My AC/Alternator (x2) appears to be 72-1/2" (7715 Gates, Dayco 15720, etc.). Fan belt taken off was goodyear 15376 (x 2), and mainly need to identify the power steering belt. Don't know if anyone has same other configuration, that may advise on PS belt; I won't hold you to it, just, as usual, grasping at straws... Thanks for the help! Robert #0075 |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | I have never had a problem changing belts either. I use the slip over one blade and turn the fan technique as well. Will buy a small bottle jack as 1/2" slot on my mount is wallowed out.
Henry |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | Is this the original engine? I have had this problem with 400 ci engines. |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Yes, original 440I. Also, Power steering belt appears to be 42" (outer), fan at 37", A/C seems to actually be 71". Is this a matter of I go out, and find the most heavy duty belts I can find with these measurements? I'm leary about the cheaper ones. Is the width & taper standard? I assume 1/2" with 36 Degree angle (seems to be common denominator)? Thanks again! At least I'm making progress! |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Never mind, if I'm confusing things with width/angle, unless info readily available. Anyone know if correlation between part #'s and measurements? Seems to me the 71" has "71" in part #, as well as 37" having "37" in part # (these were my crude actual measurements, not from any specs; which seem to vary from mine). I assume my PS belt will have "42" in part #, make sense?? |
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Veteran
Location: Soquel, CA. | For my stock 440i setup, I have to remove the fan to get the power steering belt off. It is a pain in the ass and you will skin some knuckles. But I can confirm that if that is what you are seeing, it is not unusual. Honestly, I don't remember the pulley part, but it must come off because that was the issue. Before I changed my AC Compressor to a Sanden, I had to change belts on the side of road on every major trip (or, when I had my act together, before every major trip). For what it is worth, I am currently carrying a Gates 8473 Extra Service belt as my spare for the Power Steering.
Greg |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Mine has a Carquest 7430 on it. |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Thank you, for confirming that for me, Greg, et al. I feel more confident going in there (tomorrow). Neither of those belts seem to be for me, based on my own fairly accurate outside circumference measurements vs. online specs; however I have virtually no confidence that the mfrs. would measure the same as me; not to mention, I have no idea if barking up the right tree regarding my part #s as mentioned above, nor any knowledge of what orig. parts may have been changed out and/or varying sizes at pulleys. And I would hope, if I get a belt slightly larger than existing, that perhaps there is a bit more play in tensioners; whereas I could make up the slack. Ha! Yeah, right! |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Two solutions - take off crankshaft pulley or water pump pulley. The stock FMC 5 groove crank pulley and the 2 groove WP pulley are too close together to pass the Power Steering belt between them. You must remove (and reinstall) one or the other. Loosen the 2 groove water pump Idler pulley thru the rear engine bay door. Loosen the crank/AC/Alternator belts((Alternator tightens those two inside belts.It is easier to remove the radiator sheet metal rock shield right below the crank pulley, then lay on you back (in the shade), and remove six bolts holding the Crank pulley to the STATIONARY DAMPER, instead of reaching in and around the fan to get the 4 bolts that are holding the WP Pulley to the MOVING/ROTATING water pump fan flange. Move the 2 outer belts off the crank pulley, then put the PS BELT in place around the crank pulley middle groove and the PS pulley. Reinstall whichever outside pulley (crank or WP) you removed. Align and tighten the crank/AC/Aternator belts. Reinstall the outside belts and tighten them using the square 1/2 inch hole in the Idler bracket. Now tighten the PS belt, using the square 1/2 inch hole in the pump bracket. No belts should require tightening more than what force can be applied using the square hole in the bracket and a 16-18" breaker bar. Then replace the rock shield.
There are several "improvements" that can be made to the stock FMC water pump and all the pulleys to enhance reliability, maintainability, and durability . . . but that is another story, that few seem interested in. STEER ON ! Lou #120 |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Thanks, Lou! Not sure which pulley I'll pull, but definitely going to look into options (I've wrestled with those fan nuts on other, more easily accessed, vehicles years ago). I don't remember the details, but know that I'd rather not get involved if there is an easier way. I really appreciate the detailed info! Still screwed for belt acquisition, what, with Sunday & holiday; and what seems like any major auto parts stores not stocking the belts (I think) I need. I'm supposed to move this thing today, but not too optimistic. I guess that the bright side is, I'll have knowledge of this next time.... |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Having had to change my water pump several times (different subject), I did do something to make reassembly easier since you are working by feel when reinstaling the fan pulley, spacers and fan. I took two extra bolts of the size that hold the fan etc. to the water pump. I then cut the heads of the bolts off and ground the sharp edges smooth.
To reassemble everything, I then hand screwed these two guide bolts just a few turns into the water pump. Then I slipped the pulley, spacers and fan onto these two guide bolts/studs. That eliminated any hole alingment issues and it was then easy to just slip each item back on one at a time. No having to hold multiple items inplace all at once. I then easily put two of the attaching bolts in by hand into the two remaing holes. I then unscrewed the two headless bolts/studs and installed the two remaining bolts and tightened everything to spec.
The studs then went into the storage compartment to always be with the coach to make repairs while on the road much easier. |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Thanks for that, too! Still without all the proper belts, need to put it back together; and do it again within the week with all new (awaiting delivery). For the record, my configuration is now using current Dayco stock #s: AC/Alternator #15720 (was gates 7715). Fan/Idler #15360, (was Goodyear 15376), and Power Steering #15420 (was unknown). And, yes, there is a correlation between measurements and part #s (configuration varies by mfr.). in this case, the "15" refers to width, followed by 2 numbers representing length, but be careful; some mfrs. have numbers that are in the same size range, but can vary quite a bit; best to check specs. In the case of the Gates #, "715" equals 71-1/2". I'm goin' in now.... Hope this helps save someone else some time & aggravation later on. Thx |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yes, I made the same studs to reinstall my fan/spacers etc too, and they stay in the rig. It's kinda a must if you like your back, fingers, and neighbors. |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | I was actually going to suggest that, after attacking it. I was picturing what Big Rabbit Man had said, when going to re-assemble fan. I did not have any correct studs (I'm guessing fan bolts to be a 5/16"-18 thread) to put into the fan assy., so had much success with marking the components in such a way that I could roughly line up the holes with sharpie marks, and was surprised that with very little wiggling, was able to catch first bolt; the rest were easy. Here's the low-down, following all my efforts to complete all 5 belt replacements (Job is effectively done, will need to be done again, but now know the process; and not nearly as daunting as I had anticipated). I had the fan/pulleys off in about 4 minutes, WITH 1 HAND!! Turns out, I used a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/2" socket. The first one I did, was holding fan blade with one hand, while working ratchet; but quickly learned that I could put one hand in, and use fan blade & ratchet as leverage against each other to loosen (once you "break" the bolt initially, can turn the rest of it out with fingers), very effectively! Believe it or not, I re-assembled the fan, including spacers/pulleys/bolts with one hand as well (the marks were key). To tighten, my arm prevented fan from spinning while tightening bolts. Another note: I did not have a bottle jack, but jammed a large wooden wedge between frame & breaker bar with pressure on the tensioners to hold everything in place while tightening bolts. One more hint: a ratcheting box wrench is helpful for bolt behind power steering pump, but you can use any skinny enough to get in there. Ran her another 70 miles today, albeit my usual nightmare... Think fuel filter (I just replaced today) took up the rest of the gunk built up behind the last one. Rig would only top out about 45 mph for about 1/2 the trip; followed by multiple backfires when letting off the gas, when I did reach 60 mph or so. Got a clear plastic one, metal like previous, not in stock. Either gunked up, or just wrong. I did not, and do not know, if should have filled it with gas first, but didn't. I can see it got dirty right away, and liquid gas only sits at bottom of filter, and I would have thought it would have filled up. Will get different one in her tomorrow. Thank You again, ALL! Yes, I did it, but you gave me the push I needed to succeed. Kudos! Robert |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | When I am first driving a motor home or old car that has been sitting for while, I plan on getting no more than 40 - 50 miles out of a filter. You want to have plenty of Fram G2 (5/16" or G3 (3/8", or equivalent, whichever you need, with you. Fuel and exhaust systems are damaged by backfires. I buy them by the dozen. It is good to find the filter is the cause of your sluggish engine problem. I once used 8 filters driving a 75 Imperial from Baton Rouge to Atlanta. Henry |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Nothing better than hearing a good success story, and someone gaining comfidence in their mechanical abilities... |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Well, don't know that the filter is the problem, will start new thread, thx... |
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power steering belt replacement
