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bathroom lights no worky...
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dkarnath
Posted 2017-04-05 3:01 PM (#4487)
Subject: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Medford, OR
(204.10.247.1)
My bathroom lights and vent fan all of sudden quite working, pulled out the Power Probe III and found there to be no 12v power anywhere, but when I put power to the fixtures from the switches they all work like normal. Pulled down the fan mounted in the ceiling and a whole host of wiring is right there! What I found was my main black hot wire was toasted? Not sure if it's from laying on top of the ceiling? or what, but it was green/copper fried. So now after looking at the wiring schematics on line and from the book, I can't really pin point which direction the wire runs through the coach? I can reach my hand up in the bathroom ceiling and all I can feel is the fried wire going straight back towards the bathroom window, cant pin point north or south?? I snooped around above the fridge cabinet, and all I see is what looks like a set of larger white and black 120v wires coming up and out of the bathroom?? The 120v wiring is supposed to be running down low (receptacle height) in the bathroom according to the schematics. The only wiring I see south of the bathroom is the under cabinet light (above bed) and continues going back towards the rear of the coach I think (schematics), nothing (obvious) going into the bathroom from the rear. Anyone been down this road? I need to try and follow the neutral (forgot to), It was 11pm last night when I discovered this and bed time....
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BigRabbitMan
Posted 2017-04-05 3:40 PM (#4488 - in reply to #4487)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...



Location: Cottage Grove, OR
(97.94.227.253)
Not sure about this, but I think the 12 volt lines run along the side of the coach inside the aluminum body framework and then come out at different places as needed. This protects the wires but if damaged in the wall it creates a repair challenge. The 12v lights run off of a fuse at the converter and then go out from there I believe.

The 120 volt romex wires also run inside the aluminum tubing. I don't know the story of the black and white 120 v wires you have found. It may be something added/changed by a previous owner.
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dkarnath
Posted 2017-04-05 4:27 PM (#4489 - in reply to #4487)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Medford, OR
(204.10.247.1)
Hmm. The two mystery wires I found have that factory yellow spray foam on them? I can't quite reach them to see what they are without pulling the fridge out.... Looks like I have some work to do...
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LCAC_Man
Posted 2017-04-05 9:06 PM (#4490 - in reply to #4489)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Oceanside, CA
(172.10.134.245)
The power for my bathroom lights was MIA when I got my rig, the rats had made such a mess of it I just cut it all out and ran new(I never found the original source wires...I think they ate them). I tapped into a spare circuit near the furnace and ran it under the shower and up the wall to the bathroom light switch then fished it up and over to the bathroom roof lights/fan and over to the shower light as well. It was a huge PITA, I had to cut an additional access at the top of the hallway wall just outside the bathroom to get at it..
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dkarnath
Posted 2017-04-06 9:02 AM (#4491 - in reply to #4487)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Medford, OR
(204.10.247.1)
I am probably going to have to do the same as you Len.....Not sure yet where I can tap into power near the furnace though, I don't think I found any extra circuits or anything when I had the furnace out....I am posting pics in my album of what I found last night.
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LCAC_Man
Posted 2017-04-06 10:23 AM (#4492 - in reply to #4491)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Oceanside, CA
(70.183.105.121)
Splicing into the DC power for the refrigerator is a good option, that's a good size circuit and you rarely need bathroom lights when using DC for the fridge..I'm usually on propane or AC from shore power or my inverter..I only use DC when on the road and never need bathroom lights during those times (skylight and window provide plenty of light).
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dkarnath
Posted 2017-04-06 10:42 AM (#4493 - in reply to #4487)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Medford, OR
(204.10.247.1)
I still have the original 12v ONLY fridge. Would you still tap into that circuit Len?
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LCAC_Man
Posted 2017-04-06 1:57 PM (#4500 - in reply to #4487)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...


Location: Oceanside, CA
(70.183.105.121)
Nope...probably water pump circuit instead.
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BigRabbitMan
Posted 2017-04-06 6:43 PM (#4507 - in reply to #4487)
Subject: Re: bathroom lights no worky...



Location: Cottage Grove, OR
(97.94.227.253)
I ran a 10ga fused wire from the domestic battery to a new 6 position fuse block to the left of the heater and attached it to the floor. I then added a six position ground block on the back side of the cabinet frame with a 10ga wire to a new frame ground. That gave the ability to add circuits as needed without patching into existing circuits. I moved the refer to the fuse block and added the air horn, a 12v outlet, an additional water pump switch, etc. It cleaned up the wiring on that side.

See these two albums:
http://fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid=84

http://fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid=86

I used the old refer hot wire to pull the new heavier hot wire. Upped the fuse value to the main line and then used amp appropriate fuses for the individual branches.

All is now good!!
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