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Battery Diagram for #708
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fmc708
Posted 2018-02-24 7:34 PM (#5328)
Subject: Battery Diagram for #708



Location: Soquel, CA.
(71.198.242.139)
I uploaded a diagram in Albums I just completed showing the house and engine batteries for #708 (and associated components).  When at the Valencia rally, I was lucky enough to get a bad power pedestal.  It fried my Converter.  So, I am replacing it with a modern Converter/Charger (probably combined with an 2000k Inverter).  I also have to replace my Battery Isolator. 

My plan is to relocate the rear house batteries up to the front so that they are close to the front house batteries and the new charger/inverter.  I have to figure out a place to put them; I am hoping I can add another compartment on the passenger side similar to the compartment below the driver's side footwell.  But, I have not investigated that yet.  

I want to make sure I get the wiring right, so this diagram will at least show me where I am starting and will hopefully help me do the new wiring when I relocate the batteries.  Currently, everything seems to be working (except the battery isolator).   I think I stared at this diagram long enough to understand what is going on here.  But, if anyone sees any problems, please chime in!

The "Jump" is controlled by a switch on my dash that allows me to bridge the house and engine batteries.  I use it when there is an issue with the engine battery for starting.  The "Cut Off" is a switch a PO installed so that I can cut off the engine battery either for security when parked or for longer term storage.

The pink wire shown does not seem to go anywhere; it is not hooked up to anything.  It goes from the rear house batteries over the engine and into the area just inside the curb side engine access, near the engine battery, battery isolator, starter, etc.  I am not sure what it was for or what it was hooked up to originally.  

Greg #708

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byegorge
Posted 2018-02-24 10:42 PM (#5329 - in reply to #5328)
Subject: Re: Battery Diagram for #708


Location: Olympia, Washington
(71.231.209.250)
Greg:

Just make sure your 'jump' switch is powered by the 'house' batteries. A dead 'car' battery might not have enough voltage to close the circuit. Turn the 'jump' switch into a 'charge' switch when powered by the 'car' battery and forget the isolater entirely.
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fmc708
Posted 2018-02-25 12:02 PM (#5330 - in reply to #5329)
Subject: Re: Battery Diagram for #708



Location: Soquel, CA.
(71.198.242.139)
That is a good idea, that isolator is nothing but trouble.  This will be my 3rd one.  So, I like that idea.  I have already changed the temporary switch on my dash (you had to hold it down) to a switch that I can turn on and off.  I had to do that when the isolator stopped working properly and isolated the engine battery permanently (it stopped charging).  Now that I am in the habit of managing when the house and engine battery are bridged for charging while driving, I find it more useful.
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byegorge
Posted 2018-02-26 3:05 AM (#5331 - in reply to #5330)
Subject: Re: Battery Diagram for #708


Location: Olympia, Washington
(71.231.209.250)

 Greg:

 Use a 'double throw' switch with center off one side momentary (have to hold it in position) for jump and the other side continuous for charge. The center 'common' terminal connects to the solenoid activation the momentary terminal connects to the positive 'house' battery (for jump) and the continuous terminal connects to the positive 'car' battery or better yet positive switched ignition (for charge). Make sure you get a solenoid rated for continuous duty starter solenoids are not.

 

 

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LCAC_Man
Posted 2018-02-26 9:08 PM (#5336 - in reply to #5331)
Subject: Re: Battery Diagram for #708


Location: Oceanside, CA
(172.10.134.245)
I decided against a remote control jump switch, it just doesn't get used that much and when it does I'm good with going back and turning it on.
I use the 9001 and 9003 switches on pretty much all my projects.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/11/41/Manual_Battery_Switc...
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