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|#846 - Cummins Swap|
|Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)|
Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).
Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.
This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.
More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.
This 3-gang switch holder had the other 3-pole switches in it that didn't work for me. Got it for just over $10/bucks and I liked the chromed switch guards that prevent accidental contact with the switches. With only slight modification (grinding with a Dremel stone) the Cole Hersee's dropped right into it. I chose the location as it's about 6" off my right knee.
This switch can have up to 6 terminals. This one has 4. This schematic gave me full independent control over both solenoids with lighted switches whether they're off or on. I did bridge both #4's to a key-on positive and did the same with the #3's to ground both trans wires.
Cole Hersee toggle switch #54109-BP. Dual colour toggle. 4 - terminals.
I was forced to improvise another perch for the rad angle-strut on this side in order to clear the CAC piping. Yeah-yeah... I'm still working on the birdsnest of wiring, but it's coming along.
Starboard side mount. This was stupid easy as I simply welded a gusseted angle-bracket right onto the chassis frame.
One 3/8" bolt on the upper corners each side and two more on the lower mount each side and the works lifts right out.
Port side view of the final mounting of the rad. Again, it's a made in Canada Spectra Premium all aluminum downflow rad with the in/out ports in the upper left and lower right that should work well with the Cummins. Part #2001-1705
Included this to show the repositioning of the lower heavy angle bracket. You can see the four holes just above it where it was originally. Ground off the inside heads of the four heavy iron rivets that held it then pried it off from the outside with a cold chisel & hammer. Also, the big bracket above it with the round hole is not needed and could have been taken off. You can just see the 1/2" bolt above it sticking out at the top of the rad and this is where I decided to attach the angle support struts from the original set up.
Done. The fan will sit almost exactly 1/2 the blade depth into the shroud. Note: the SS sheet metal is over 3/4" above the rad core face, so there's room for the fan air-flow to reach most all of it.
Tin snips on some aluminum flashing then a few more rivets and boom...
On to the shroud. Found this chunk of 16ga. SS sheet metal I had kicking around that was tailor made for this job. Stuff was pretty hard though. Went through about 5 jigsaw blades to cut this 80" circumference. Added 1 1/2" to the fan circumference for 3/4" blade to shroud clearance. Found some 1" angle brackets I had on hand and had-at-it with some 3/16" rivets. Yee-ha!
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