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|#846 - Cummins Swap|
|Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)|
Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).
Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.
This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.
More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.
OEM FMC engine mount cross member - unmolested.
The aforementioned coveted Chrysler 727 transmission mounted park-brake drum with 23-splines, before the drum is machined off.
Where you end up if you don't machine it off.
I wanted to briefly revisit the brake drum yoke adapter that Billy and Lou came up with to simplify connecting the output shaft of the 47RH and enable the use of the short 8" OEM FMC driveshaft. You can find these quite readily available with a little searching as they (the transmission mounted park-brake) were used extensively on the old 727's in 70's era motorhomes and some med duty trucks IIRC. You'll know you've found the right one if it has 23-splines. Bill also advised that you can shave off another 1/2" or so by machining off the smooth inside end of the unit that has no splines. With a 12 valve swap, every little bit of driveline length you can save is crucial; however, I decided to leave it on this one as I feel it'll be slightly stronger left intact. I'll eat the 1/2".
Here you can clearly see the KDP just behind the black bolt that was threaded into the aluminum casting to block the KDP from coming out of the hole then dropping down into the gears. This is a different way to remedy this as the usual kit involves using the hex bolt to the right to fasten a metal restraint clip over the pin. The way this was done, conceivably could be done without even removing the timing cover if you knew exactly where to drill and tap the hole.
NOTE: I'd be remiss if I didn't add a reminder about the imperative confirm that the KDP (killer dowel pin) and the exhaust valve springs have been done on your 12 valve. The latter only required if you are going to run an exhaust brake. We did the exhaust valve springs (60-pounders) and confirmed the KDP pin had been addressed.
New seals and yoke nuts done, now torque the yoke-nuts back and get this sucker back home where she belongs. Note on the pinion nut torque: After a lengthy discussion with Gord, at WestCoast Gear in Vancouver BC., I took his advise and nearly halved the previous torque spec (from 600 ft/lbs down to 350 ft/lbs) on the pinion yoke nut. He's rebuilt hundreds of gear cases for all kinds of heavy equipment and he was positive that 600 ft/lbs was far more than necessary. Again, this only his opinion and I happen to agree. What you chose to do is your business.
Took a bit of looking but I found a cheap pulley wheel for an electric motor etc. that fit perfect to gently drift/tap the new oil seal into place. Be careful not to let it get tilted out of whack.
Once you pull the pinion assembly out (carefully so as not to damage or mix up the shims) you'll need to separate the front flange to get at the pinion oil seal. Do this by threading 3 bolts into the holes provided and turn them in slowly equal in turns as best you can to part the flange. When you're done, clean the parts of old gasket/seal material and use a good quality RTV sealant to make a new gasket as they are no longer available. I found a cheap pulley wheel to use as a punch to drift the new seal into place. Worked perfectly.
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