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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | http://www.ebay.com/itm/1977-Motorhome-MoPar-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-Dodge...
e-/291885672340?hash=item43f5bde794:g:7sAAAOSwLnBX5ZkQ&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-440-Motorhome-Exhaust-Heat-Shields-an...
Find another of the same manifold and you will stop burning up Valve Covers, VC Gaskets, Plug Wires, other stuff . . .
Press ON ! Lou #120 |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | Thanks for the alert Lou. Now I have a set. Time to get them installed. I didn't see the post in time for the heat shields. I might need to try and make them although I did put the ceramic spark plug wires on. Anyway, thanks again.
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Another one CHEAP with heat shields . . .
http://www.ebay.com/itm/383-440-Dodge-Truck-manifolds-Ramcharger-mo...
Lou #120 |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | Thanks Lou. I just got the update - but it was sold. Anyway, I have already have two now and just need to install them. I have the 2-1/4" couplers ordered and on the way. I'm assuming that I don't need to do anything with the exhaust pipe (i.e. the lengths of the old and "new" manifolds are the same). The only things left to buy are the bolts and the manifold gaskets. I haven't looked to see if I need gaskets at the exhaust pipe/manifold interface. Probably. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | The low manifolds do not use a gasket to seal to the pipe. The old flat flange would have to be removed, the new style coupler/flange goes on the pipe, then the pipe is flared to fit the ball/flange on the manifold. When tightened up it seals without a gasket to fail later. I recommend using a copper gasket between the manifolds and heads. I made new pipes when I put them on #902. There are pictures in the albums.
Bill |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Your going to need to do pipe work like Bill said, the ends are different. You can use studs with nuts to mount the low manny's to the head(that's what I did anyway). Your going to need to modify your dipstick and possibly power steering pump too if you haven't gotten that far yet....
Dan
#850
Edited by dkarnath 2016-11-10 1:59 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | They low manifolds were not made for a FMC, but just happen to fit and solve a problem with a FMC. The stock FMC high exhaust manifold header pipe(s) do NOT fit the low manifold(s). The low manifolds and spark plug heat shields came from the driver side ONLY of Big Block powered 75-78 Dodge and Mayflower vans. The pipe between the exhaust manifold and the muffler is called the "header pipe". The pipe between the muffler and the exhaust exit is called the "tail pipe".
The male (ball) flange at the low manifold outlet is tilted 10 degrees in toward the oil pan. A Walker #41725 pipe w/flange fits the male ball, but cut the flange off.
Use a FX37 Split Flange -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-4-2-25-Exhaust-Repair-oval-SPLIT-FLANGE...
to attach the header pipe(s) to the manifold, as it is the same 2-1/4" pipe size as the manifold. 2" is too small, and 2-1/2" is too big.
You will have to make your own header pipes, collector, for duals going out each side or both on the driver side under the GenSet, or a single (Flow Master Big Block Series 50 recommended) exiting in the stock location. or ??? I put a couple pictures of unwelded header pipe/collector/single muffler in the Album. Biggest issue is don't build a very rigid system that only fits one way and is one solid big weldment from end to end. Consider a flex pipe or two in the set and maybe two or more slip joints so you can get the set apart in a couple pieces, and maybe get the oil pan off/on with out having to drop EVERYTHING.
Use this Ceramic wire set and run them OVER the Valve covers - http://www.jegs.com/i/Accel/110/9001C/10002/-1
Zoom Zoom, Lou #120
Edited by hemi354az 2016-11-10 2:06 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Seems like I had my pipes bent 75 degrees on the passenger side and 105 degrees on drivers side and exited out under the gen set. I was thinking 15 degrees off. I don't have the electronic magnetic smart level Lou does. Nice part about the ball flang it is slightly forgiving.
Bill |
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Contributor
Location: Shoreview, MN | Thanks guys. I just ordered the Walker pipe adapters and like I said I have the 2 1/4' split flanges on the way. I'll have to figure out the rest (dual/single/etc.) and will refer to the photos (I looked at them a few months ago) - thanks for the memory on the angles to be bent. Also, thanks for the good advice on the multiple pieces and flex pipe Lou. I already have added the ceramic plug wires.
I have a couple of leaky valve cover gaskets (no doubt from the existing manifolds), so I want to get the exhaust taken care of and then replace the gaskets afterwards. I also have a stripped valve cover bolt hole I'll need to deal with. Not sure what to do there yet (step-up in size or heli-coil). Anyone have to do that before?
And Lou, I adjusted the drum brakes last weekend. You are right - that is a pain in the keester of a job. I think I still need to bleed the system, but I'm glad I did the adjustment as I think some of them were way off. Figuring out (and remembering) the right direction to turn the star wheels was fun. I used a piece of chaulk to help me remember. My 8 ton bottle jack did fine, BTW.
My wife and I are taking 489 up to Duluth this weekend to see my son in college. Wish us luck getting up there and back. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | There are several 2.25" into 3" merge collectors made. I like the two into one and a big QUIET MUFFLER, which is better suited to the lower RPMs that we use in the FMC. The Vibrant Performance #10356 collector is PRICEY but gets the two 2.25" pipes very close together for the "LEAST stuff" hanging down below the oil pan . . . but can you get two muffler clamps in between the two pipes ? Lots of ways to skin this particular cat . . . but no matter what, the LOW MANIFOLDS and Spark Plug HEAT SHIELDS and Ceramic Wire Ends are worth every cent for reliability and longevity.
Nice and quiet . . . Lou #120 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Do yourself a favor and send your manifolds out to be blasted and ceramic coated, and then when your new head/cross-over pipes are fabricated wrap them real good with a exhaust heat wrap. You'll probably buy yourself a 15-20dg reduction in engine bay temp just with those two changes. |
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Ignacio Colorado | Ask Barny Martin about exhaust wrap vs heat. Deal with the heat or plan to replace the pipe you wrap. Barny thought he could Run block hugger headers wrapped. Lasted one year before they rusted through. Or maybe they burned through from the inside. With Connie on the gas pedal we can figure the headers were spitting fire.
Bill
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | I agree with Bill and Barney about exhaust wrap. It is a band-aid for race cars. Wrap only the pipes you want to replace later.
Lou #120 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | Couldn't disagree with you guys more on this. I've used, and continue to use wrap with great results(I'll grant you I'm in the southwest and don't have to deal with the crap moisture that many of you do).
If you're going to use bare steel for you're head/crossover pipe you may have rust issues but I can't believe anyone would still use that garbage, if so I'd send it out for ceramic coating as well. A quality (14ga or thicker) aluminized or stainless exhaust tube is worth every dime(you only need a few feet anyways).
Headers of any sort in this application would be wasteful, but, those cheapy blockhuggers in particular are total trash and will burn through/warp regardless of wrap install or not. Ceramic coating your manifolds is absolutely a proven heat control measure..
It's even more important to get the exhaust heat out of a pusher engine bay than a front engine puller as you are pushing that hot exhaust manifold air right through the radiator, making the engine run even hotter and increasing the engine bay temp even more...effectively producing a self licking (quickly melting)ice-cream cone..
Edited by LCAC_Man 2016-11-11 12:27 PM
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Extreme Veteran
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | 2015 US produced 4 M cars and 8 M commercial vehicles, 12 M total.
2015 world produced 68 M cars and 22 M commercial vehicles, 90 M total.
http://www.oica.net/category/production-statistics/2015-statistics/
None of them had wrapped exhaust pipes or ceramic coated cast iron manifolds, but most used aluminized steel pipe and uncoated cast iron exhaust manifolds.
As all cars have become smaller and all the engine "stuff" takes up more underhood space, there have been heat shields added in several places, including underbody.
Typical gasoline powered max exhaust gas temperature is 16-1700 degrees F, but only 12-1300 degrees F for diesels.
While a wrap may prevent burning something outside the wrapped pipe, it makes the pipe itself run hotter longer. Don't wrap the pipe . . . put a heat shield (double wall if possible) on the area that is getting heated. The Spark Plug Heat Shields that came on the low exhaust manifolds are a good example. The Chrysler REAL Industrial Engine, the 361HT and 413HT, had double wall heat shields between the engine block and the exhaust manifold.
$400 saddles on $20 mules . . . Zoom ON ! Lou #120 |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Oceanside, CA | hemi354az - 2016-11-11 11:25 AM
While a wrap may prevent burning something outside the wrapped pipe, it makes the pipe itself run hotter longer.
That's exactly my point, I much prefer more of the heat be contained in my exhaust system than allowed to transfer to my engine bay. What do I care how hot the pipe gets?...it's an exhaust pipe...that's it's job..
None of the millions of cars produced in the past couple years are 40yr old, 14000lbs V8 pushers that have a known engine bay temperature control problem. If they were, they'd spend the extra money to ceramic coat the exhaust components... it has nothing to do with effectiveness, and everything to do with need/cost.
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Hard to find Exhaust Manifold w/spark plug heat shields
