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Expert
 
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | I need to get a spare set of bearings for the idler pulley for the alternator/fan belts. Does anyone have a bearing number for those bearings. I would get the number off of my existing idler but it is difficult to see while installed. With the bearing number, I can go to a local bearing house and get a spare set. Thanks, |
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Veteran
Location: Kingsley Michigan | Hey there Steve;
I feel for you---I no longer use the idler as they inherently cause most of the problem. They are the smallest set of bearings in any automotive function concerning belts and have to spin the fastest. I retrieved our old one from the bone pile---and after 30 minutes--gave up on trying to loosen the bolt--got the nut of with a heating and beating but the bolt won't budge and the number is still obscure--sorry!
We don't use the old automotive airconditioning so I removed it and moved the alternator down and forward to line up with the waterpump and crankshaft pulleys---works great, eliminates the idler and gives easier access to the distributor!
Talk with you later: Barn
PS Is the vanity mirror in yet?? |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Hi Barney,
Thanks for the effort in trying to secure the bearing number. I do like your arrangement, except that I still use the automotive air conditioning so I need to keep that system alive. Someday I plan on creating a new alternator bracket to lower it and install the large DelcoRemy 160 amp truck alternator that I have in the garage. That will lower the alternator, but not eliminate the idler.
My other "someday" change that I want to do is eliminate the rear radiator. When I converted to the Allison 545, it shifted the engine rearwards about 2 inches. I noticed a slight increase in rear end wiggle. By eliminating the rear radiator, some weight would shift forward and the engine area would be much more accessable. The cooling would be done by one or two smaller horizontal flow radiators laid down at about a 15 degree angle under the front (no exterior changes). They would get clean ram air when traveling and would have electric fans to suppliment at slow speeds or under severe conditions such as climbing a grade. My auto AC condensers are there now. It could become a stacked system as is used on most vehicles. It could use dual staged fans like my Subaru Brat uses.
That is the system that was used in the Vixen21 SE that I had for a couple of years. It runs a Buick Century transverse V6 engine and transaxel in the rear and the radiator is under the front as I described. It uses an electric water pump to ensure adequate coolant flow at all engine speeds. The system worked quite well, but the coach at 21 feet was too small for me. Think 75% of FMC length, width and height and you would about have it. Same basic floor plan.
The vanity mirror is still not in. I plan on putting it on the left side and putting the existing magazine rack on it's door in the same location it is now. The existing vanity will stay in place. That will give us two vanity mirrors (Jim, restrain yourself!)! The second one will have the interior modified to carry more small items like medicines, computer chargers, etc.
Looking forward to seeing you and the dogs, |
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Veteran
Location: Illinois | The idler bearing numbers depend on whether you have the original non-greaseable or the much improved greaseable shaft and bearings.
HAPPY TRAILS - Leslie Hoagland |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | <p>Mine has the greaseable shaft. The interesting thing was that I didn't know it, until I did the pump replacement. It was only after it was out of the coach to remove the water pump, that I could see the small, brass plug in the head of the idler bearing shaft bolt. Out of curiosity, I removed the plug (use an allen wrench to remove) and saw grease so I screwed in a grease zert and greased the bearing. </p><p>I had interesting thoughts about the person that would have a place for a grease zert, but not have one in it so someone would know to grease it! Upon putting the new water pump on followed by the pulley and fan, I then realized why there was no grease zert in the end of the shaft. It is because the zert was being hit by the fan! So I removed the zert and replaced the small brass plug which allows for fan clearance. </p><p>The lesson is that those of us that have not previously closely inspected the radiator end of the idler pulley shaft need to do so in order to know if we have the greaseable bearing (which should be greased) or the non greaseable one. </p><p>In either case, carrying a spare set of bearings is probably a good idea. Everyone thanks you for the bearing numbers: both greaseable and non-greaseable.</p><p>Note to Jim E.: In the message composition box, I have paragraphs, but in the message itself only the symbls.</p>
Edited by BigRabbitMan 2006-11-29 11:58 PM
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Veteran
Location: Illinois | Stephen
We at MCR sell an idler shaft that has the zerk in the threaded end so that the zerk stays in place to be greased at 3,000 miles or 60 days with the OIL CHANGE.
Be sure to use the bearings with the one sided steel shield and NOT the plastic shield.
The idler that is properly greased at specified interval lasts for many miles.
HAPPY TRAILS - Leslie Hoagland |
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Veteran
Location: Kingsley Michigan | Morning Steve;
You are right--we should have a place--like an extension of the Mechanics area of our web site to post our spare parts instead of storing them and eventually throwing them out!
Speaking of which, the conversation of using a sealed bearing versus a greasable one is a mute point. Bearing failure is caused by two basic problems of load and lubrication. You see, most people don't grease their greasables in general and when they do--they use a grease gun that has been laying around collecting dust and dirt on the end of it or didn't properly clean the last zert fitting before using the gun on the next bearing, all leading to intoduction of dirt into the bearing. This along with the idea that you have to see grease come out of the bearing means you have to force enough grease in there to bypass the seal--leaving a potential for dirt to enter--again killing the bearing. Most people don't know that a sealed and or shielded bearing is assembled in a clean room enviroment and uses a higher quality grease made for the size of the bearing and application, all of which of happens when you can specify the grade of bearing---even automotive use type. As far as buying the bearing with only one shield or seal, which can lead to more unnessecary expense and time delay, get the double sided bearing and use an ice pick or screw driver to remove the other side.
Take care and have a great holiday; Barney
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Veteran
Location: Illinois |
The greaseable bearings have been used in this idler setup for over twenty years with low failure rate.
OF COURSE, you must grease the idler as well as CHANGE THE OIL every 60 days or 3,000 miles whichever occurs first.
HAPPY TRAILS - LESLIE HOAAGLAND |
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Veteran
Location: Illinois |
The greaseable bearings have been used in this idler setup for over twenty years with low failure rate.
OF COURSE, you must grease the idler as well as CHANGE THE OIL every 60 days or 3,000 miles whichever occurs first.
HAPPY TRAILS - LESLIE HOAGLAND |
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Veteran
Location: Illinois |
The greaseable bearings have been used in this idler setup for over twenty years with low failure rate.
OF COURSE, you must grease the idler as well as CHANGE THE OIL every 60 days or 3,000 miles whichever occurs first.
HAPPY TRAILS - LESLIE HOAGLAND |
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Idler pulley bearing number
