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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | ...carried over issues from power steering replacement thread....
Had run #75 out of gas, ugh! Put brand new Fram g2 filter (plastic), but vehicle sluggish, multiple backfires, stalling at stops (It should be noted that carb is not properly adjusted, but as good as I was able to ascertain; but felt pretty good before running out of gas). I had seen much rust, etc. come out bottom of old filter (metal, I think AC Delco). When put in new G2, filter inside seemed to get dirty quick, but may be normal, now that it was wet? (and it wouldn't surprise me if there is loads more yet to come thru the system, and ruin several more filters immediately?? So, without another in hand, back flushed old metal filter with gas, and much crud came out, until I was satisfied it was as good as it was going to get, reinstalled, but only marginally better. No backfires, or stalling at stops, but still feels like it's dragging another non-running FMC behind it with it's emergency brake on. When passing gear kicks in, engine revs, but does not really accelerate (horrible up any grade, topping out at 35 with foot to the floor). The only way I feel as if I have control of acceleration, is to gradually build up speed; actually back off on pedal when it tops out speed, so I get to do that. Someone told me it may be the difference between gravity Vs pressure filter; but doubt that now, that other owner actually suggested same filter (unless there are different configurations, whereas filter is above carb? Going to get another brand new one soon, any suggestions as to the best way I should prep for this? An effective way to flush system; even though god knows how much crud may remain in tank? Or does this sound like it could be one of ten different possible causes? Thanks again, Robert #0075 |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | also, when looking into plastic filter, could only see liquid gas at about 3/16" from bottom, should the filter completely fill, or is this normal? Thx |
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Veteran
Location: Bethune, SC | This is normal when engine is off. When running, filter should be more full, but does not need to be totally full. Your symptoms seem to be a fuel supply problem. Fuel pumps are fairly cheap and easy to install. Usually a warehouse item.
Once a fuel filter is full of dirt, it has been my experience that flushing it restores minimal flow.
Henry |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | It's normal to see only small amount of fuel flowing through the filter...
(45 mph's) Make sure your choke linkage isnt binding up your throttle linkage....and check to make sure if your even getting full throttle at the carburator. (have someone step down all the way on the foot peddle, or use a brick, while you check at carb). If your not sure it looks to be full throttle, remove the throttle cable from the carb linkage, and check the movement of the throttle shaft with your hand.
You say it ran good "before" you ran it out of gas??...I think you sucked a bunch of crap in your carb then. Theres only one way to get the crap out of the carb....and thats to take it apart. Sounds like you should drain the remaining fuel out of the tank. I believe there is a drain plug. See how much junk comes out. Some ideas for ya
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Veteran
Location: Soquel, CA. | Seems pretty clear that you have a fuel problem. That said, this Summer, I spent several days in Wells, NV., on vacation, stuck fixing symptoms that seemed a fuel problem too. Turned out to be the coil.
I now use the same clear fuel filters and yes, they do not fill up completely, and no, they should not look dirty that quick. Also, you probably have more than one tube coming out of the gas tank (for instance, there is usually one for the generator which grabs gas somewhat above the bottom of the tank). I wonder if you could temporarily use that as your supply and see if there are any differences. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Take a look under your distributor cap, and make sure your rotor will move back and forth freely and smoothly spring back. If your timing isnt advancing correctly, you will not have power either and things go pop, sputter and bang....Check to make sure your distributor hold down didn't come loose too and mess the timing up...Your right when you say it could be 75 different things!!! hahahahaahaha
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Veteran
Location: Oslo Norway | The symptoms you are describing could could be caused by something staring to look like this:
http://www.fmcowners.com/mbbs22/photos/show-album.asp?albumid=14&ph...
Stay cool
Kjetil
#477
Edited by Duramaxer 2014-10-15 1:29 PM
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Definitely all good suggestions, and I will mess with it, based on these. If fuel filter was in place, when tank run dry, shouldn't that protect carb? I did notice that my coil seems "loose" at mounting screws, and looks to be original (only 39k orig miles); but probably not necessarily indicative of coil operation. I was kind of suspecting a linkage issue as well, as carb recently replaced, and linkages are slightly different position, as a result. I can probably use the generator fuel line permanently (so to speak), as generator does not look to be in a position to come back to life anytime soon. I will be having carb & timing checked by specialist in my area soon, will help rule that out (or in). Also, wasn't too confident that putting the used filter back in would be same as new; but only option at the time/place; and it did get better. Please excuse my ignorance towards these things, I'm a home mechanic (will come in handy when addressing house systems), a bicycle mechanic (handy when I need to abandon it by bike someday near the side of the road); but not a combustion engine mechanic ( I do whatever I can, usually my neighbors can tell how well or poorly I'm doing). But I forgot to mention that there is a choke problem as well: I need to run engine with foot on gas for 5-10 minutes till warms up, before it will hold idle without stalling (normally following carb replacement). And I hope this doesn't sound too crazy, but when scanning thru brake bleeding thread (still haven't got to that issue completely; still lose fluid from front of master cylinder, but don't appear to have leak, pumping brakes has become normal to me; all good, as long as it actually stops), there is mention of fluid going thru hydrovacs to intake manifold. In case anyone was wondering why there was never an update by me to that thread with good news (I still read it, and try to take it all in, for the day that I do go for it). Would this contribute in any way to my symptoms? Believe me, there is so much that needs attention (several years of just sitting), and so many issues that may be contributing to the operational status as a whole), and my intentions are true; but I don't have 2 nickels to rub together to enlist professional help (physical/local); other than you wonderful people here; and am so thankful for your willingness to help, and share... |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Kjetil, thanks, mine (what I can see of it) looks like that! Is this a common part to aquire? Also worth mentioning, fuel guage does not work, rather dances up and down the whole time engine is running (not to mention other guage issues); I assumed was related to that.... |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | If needed, you can have a new pickup tube soldered/brased to your exisiting unit. |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | and is that accessed thru the little plate I see on top of the bed in rear above fill tube? thx |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Yes you access the fuel pickup assembly through the panel under the bed like you said...
Im glad you have a good sence of humor! Thats very important when trouble shooting all the misc issues you may occur during this adventure.
Amount of miles aren't the neccessary killer of parts on motorhomes...It's the 40 years of being in the elements and sitting.
If you cant seem to find a brake fluid leak anywhere in your front system, but you are still loosing fluid, it's more than likely the front hydrovac. You need to rebuild it..
Old, carbon fouled, dirty spark plugs will run very poorly on a cold engine too..especially old mopars.
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | Thanks, A good sense of humor, or a DEATHWISH! Unfortunately, I have to fly by the seat of my pants, THANK GOD FOR AAA!! I know what early astronauts going for the moon felt: "I'ma 'goin, but I don't know ifa I'ma coming back!". I have a 1976 FMC Book on Brake systems, and might have seen other info from manual (s) here; is it difficult for a novice? I just replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, carburetor, belts... |
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Veteran
Location: Canton, (Sixes) GA | Make sure the clear plastic fuel filter is a temporary thing. They are a no-no in a hot engine compartment. They can melt and the resulting fire will destroy the coach. Earlier this year we was getting our 1970 Boss 302 Mustang out of storage and knew it had old (7-10 year) gas. Drained and siphoned out what we could and put the clear filter on "temporarily" to monitor gas quality. While driving around the block, the rubber fuel line had a slight crack and squinted gas pretty much everywhere in the front of the engine compartment. There was a backfire through the 4 barrel, caught fire, melted the plastic fuel filter, adding more gas to the inferno, melted the battery, some wiring, part of the grill, hood decal, the finned aluminum valve covers not so pretty now.. Slowly getting it back together, haven't tried to get it started again.. 0890 is Detroit Turbo Diesel powered so the fuel is not so violable - and it has 3 metal filters. I still have nightmares about the Mustang fire. Don't think it won't happen to you. |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | FMC - 2014-10-15 12:42 PM Thanks, A good sense of humor, or a DEATHWISH! Unfortunately, I have to fly by the seat of my pants, THANK GOD FOR AAA!! I know what early astronauts going for the moon felt: "I'ma 'goin, but I don't know ifa I'ma coming back!". I have a 1976 FMC Book on Brake systems, and might have seen other info from manual (s) here; is it difficult for a novice? I just replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, carburetor, belts... Do you have the three FMC coach manuals? Owners Manual, Parts Manual and Service Manual. If not, they can be found online here: http://www.fmcmotorcoach.com/index.html The Service Bulletins are also on that site. As the manuals are pdf files, you can download them and have them in your computer and print any pages that you need to have paper copies of. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Pull the booster out:
1 large vacuum line
2 brake lines
3 bolts
Pull the booster and place it on your bench, loosen the large band clamp ring around the large round vacuum canister, the canister housing half is going to be spring loaded (but its not going to take your head off or anything), break the seal and see if brake fluid comes out on to your bench and makes a huge mess....if it does, you need to replace/rebuild the hydrovac. We are off topic now... |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | dkarnath - 2014-10-15 12:27 PM If you cant seem to find a brake fluid leak anywhere in your front system, but you are still loosing fluid, it's more than likely the front hydrovac. You need to rebuild it..
What Dan says is correct as the normal setup is for the front chamber of the Master Cylinde to operate the front brakes. However, I descovered that mine is reversed so that the front chamber services the rear brakes. But either way, if fluid is diappearing and not coming out somewhere it is most likely going into the vacuum side of the brake booster. |
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Elite Veteran
Location: Medford, OR | Are all the large MC resevoirs reversed front to back from the small MC's? Or is that one goofy Stephen? |
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Regular
Location: Lavallette, NJ 08735 | sorry for throwing a wrench into the topic! I can deal with 1 issue at a time! I believe that (BigRabbitMan) you sent me a CD with all that on it, no (Thank You!)? I have hard copy of owner's manual, but not the other 2. I happened on the Brake Systems manual at a flea market, and hoped it might have info applicable to me... It was apparently published for many types of systems, and not even necessarily including anything specific to the 2900r; certainly no reference to it on cover(s). |
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | dkarnath - 2014-10-15 1:37 PM Are all the large MC resevoirs reversed front to back from the small MC's? Or is that one goofy Stephen? I don't really know as havn't worked with any others except mine, but as there are no revisions to the diagram in the revised Parts Manual, I think it is just mine. Strange things happen over a period of 38 years. Pressure bleeding my brakes was a challenge until the plumbing was figured out!! |
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Veteran
Location: Oslo Norway | Did you sort the fuel issues? What was causing the problems?
Tank you
Kjetil |
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Veteran
Location: Canton, (Sixes) GA | The front reservoir also services the rear brakes on 0890's master cylinder. I am going to have to replace that hydro-vac booster (2508827). One the best prices I've found for remanufactured is http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1980/chevrolet/c70/brake/brake_boo...
Edited by denshew 2014-11-30 11:12 AM
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Elite Veteran
Location: Victoria, BC. Canada | Here's another option: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/OBH3/518000/01305.oap?year...
I was quoted closer to $135/ea plus they would ship the two units to the O'Rielly's nearest me for another $50 or so. They have a good deal on Dot 5 silicone too. |
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fuel filter causing my issues?
