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oem pusher fan
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Del Titus
Posted 2015-05-11 1:23 PM (#2695)
Subject: oem pusher fan


Contributor


Location: Springfield, OR
New member here.
I am needing a fan blade for coach #205, engine is the 440. Anyone out there with contacts, or the actual fan blade please let me hear from you.

Del
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hemi354az
Posted 2015-05-11 7:48 PM (#2698 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Extreme Veteran

500
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona
Welcome Del,
What size PILOT DIAMETER is on your existing water pump, 5/8" or 1-1/8" ?
Lou #120
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Del Titus
Posted 2015-05-13 9:14 AM (#2706 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Contributor


Location: Springfield, OR
Thank you Lou,
It's 5/8"

Del #205
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hemi354az
Posted 2015-05-13 1:25 PM (#2707 - in reply to #2706)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Extreme Veteran

500
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona

5/8" implies that it is NOT the stock FMC long water pump, which has the 1-1/8" pilot. A PO probably changed to a car type water pump (good idea as replacement is available as new or rebuilt at any Auto Parts Store anyplace in the country) that has a 5/8" pilot. I'll assume that #205 does NOT have any type of fan clutch, and is direct drive right from the water pump flange/pulley.
If you want to stay with a "push" into the shroud setup (tries to cool 230 deg radiator water with 300 deg + air heated by the exhaust manifolds) then you want what is called a "reverse rotation fan".


Fan blades are curved or cupped (just like a "spoon") that "scoops" the air across the blade. That curve or cup has to be in the direction of rotation. Just as you can't scoop a spoonful of water with the back side of a spoon, a fan blade curved away from the direction of rotation does not move much air and just makes a lot of noise. This blade curvature, direction of rotation, and which way it is mounted are important. There has been more than one FMC reverse rotation pusher fan installed BACKWARDS.
When doing anything with the FMC fan . . . remember . . . looking in the street side engine bay door, the top fan blade rotates TOWARD YOU. If you HAVE A PUSHER FAN, that top fan blade "scoop" should be rotating toward you as a cup or curve. Look at it and study which way the blade is curved and convince yourself that the "scoop" is facing the right way toward the radiator (for a PUSHER) on that top blade that will rotate toward you. Of course, if you have a SUCK fan (takes in ambient temp outside air that flows thru the radiator, then shroud, then thru the fan that BLOWS the air ON the exhaust manifolds, then out the sides and bottom) the blade curve is reversed. Rotation is the same, but the blade curvature is the other way. Fans are made one or the other, and are not reversible by just turning the whole thing around.The fan blade should be ABOUT half in and half out.

 

Flexalite still makes small pilot, 4 bolt, no clutch, fans. You can see them at - https://www.flex-a-lite.com/belt-driven-fans.html?p=4 - using pages to see other sizes.

A REVERSE ROTATION PUSHER  18" steel hub w/aluminum blade is Part #2718. All Steel is Part #2618.

My stock FMC fan shroud has a 21" hole, so there is room for a bigger diameter 19" fan. Rev-Rotation 19' fans are Part #2719 Alum (RECOMMENDED), and #2619 Stl. 

There are lots of places to source them but I've had good service thru Summit -

http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=2719%20fan 

I have a 20" alum blade steel hub stock Chrysler SUCK fan on my #120, with a HD fan Clutch, a car type 10 bladed (actually Marine) water pump, and no idler pulleys anywhere. Come to FMC 101 School if you want to see how I did it. I am sure other FMCers have other ideas about all kinds of fans, whether to push or suck, which water pump, etc.,and they will soon let you know.

Push Air or Pull Air ON ! Lou #120 

 

 

 

 



Edited by hemi354az 2015-05-13 1:29 PM
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BigRabbitMan
Posted 2015-05-13 10:59 PM (#2708 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan



Expert

1000100100
Location: Cottage Grove, OR
I have an original pusher fan available. I will talk with you this weekend when I get home.
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BigRabbitMan
Posted 2015-05-15 10:17 AM (#2710 - in reply to #2707)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan



Expert

1000100100
Location: Cottage Grove, OR
hemi354az - 2015-05-13 11:25 AM  ... (tries to cool 230 deg radiator water with 300 deg + air heated by the exhaust manifolds) ...

I disagree with the above statement. 

An FMC owner used a recording thermometer to measure the air temperature of the air being drawing into the radiator under operational conditions while traveling at speed on the highway.  The measured temperature was 15 degrees above ambient temperature.

Virtually all FMC coaches are cooled by the air drawn from the engine compartment through the radiator and out the rear of the cosch.  I am aware of a couple of units that have had a side mount radiator system installed, but I do not know of a coach that has been sucessfully road tested with a sucking fan that draws air in the the rear and expells it into the engine compartment.

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hemi354az
Posted 2015-05-15 2:06 PM (#2711 - in reply to #2710)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Extreme Veteran

500
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona

FMC Owner Test of air temp in Engine Bay ? Who ? What was FMC Serial # ? When ? Test results are available where ? Just where was the thermocouple(s) ? Pictures ?

Only "test data" I have ever heard of is the following -

"Nasa Ames asked RVS to assist with a engine temp study by installing 9 heat sensor in the engine area connected to a graph recorder. At 65 MPH on hi 5 w/l00 ambient temp the engine compartment exceeded 350, above the carborator." - Jim Black, FMC Yahoo Website Msg #6181 Feb 28, 2008.

"I came across an old article from the FMCA magazine yesterday.  August, 1983 pg 51. cont. on page 160.  FMC Overheating. Very interesting. Nasa ran some engine bay temp tests using 9 sensors mounted around the engine bay. they ran a 400 mile trip and recorded 300 degrees above and forward of the carb. They recommended a dual exhaust system which after installed brought the temp in that spot down to 160 degrees. This was done with 90 degree ambient temp. The article also said that Nasa was who recommended the louvered rear engine bay door. They said that adding the side louvers (scoops) just pressurized the engine bay with hot air as the pusher fan can only move so much air. By adding the louvers in the rear door and the side scoops, more hot air was drawn out of the engine bay by nature of the vacuum effect behind the vehicle."  - Correspondence with Bill Sitton (President FMC Owners Club), Aug 8, 2012.

The two statements above are what I based my "300 degree +" comment on.  When Errol McGill picked up his #311 FMC in Ventura last year, he did some thermocouple instrumentation in the engine bay, and told me he saw 300 degree + temps, and began wondering how can 300 degree air cool 230 degree water in the radiator. Unfortunately, he had engine problems on the way to Denver, and #311 was burglarized in a storage lot in San Bernadino, and his instrumentation was gone. This info was just conversation between Errol and me, but it was "in line" with the Jim Black statement, and what Bill saw in the FMCA article. Perhaps you or someone else can find the "NASA FMC Engine Bay Temperature Report", and/or the FMCA Magazine article, in the Golden Storage Container of RVS Residuals. Too bad Jim Black did not share more info about that NASA Ames Test. Interesting that the FMCA Article is dated 1983 . . . 7 years AFTER the last FMC Motorhome was produced.

There are lots of ideas about the radiator airflow in the FMC engine bay. Various scoops/louvers, side fans, "other openings or closings", and even 6 (count them SIX !) core 900 sq. in. radiators to cool the 200-225 HP 440 engine have been used on FMCs over the years, with various degrees (pun ?) of success/failure. It is rare that someone spends money on some "improvement" and reports that "it" did NOT work. Obviously, something "different" than the air following the arrows in the Computational Fluid Dynamics Study is going on. Perhaps someone will do "another" thermocouple temperature survey of the FMC engine bay and air temperature going in and out of the radiator, and share the actual TEST DATA.

I am sure other FMCers have other ideas about all kinds of fans, whether to push or suck, which water pump, etc., and they will soon let us know.

Push/Pull Air ON ! Lou #120 

 

 

 

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BigRabbitMan
Posted 2015-05-16 10:13 AM (#2712 - in reply to #2711)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan



Expert

1000100100
Location: Cottage Grove, OR

hemi354az - 2015-05-15 12:06 PM

Quote:

Only "test data" I have ever heard of is the following -

"Nasa Ames asked RVS to assist with a engine temp study by installing 9 heat sensor in the engine area connected to a graph recorder. At 65 MPH on hi 5 w/l00 ambient temp the engine compartment exceeded 350, above the carborator." - Jim Black, FMC Yahoo Website Msg #6181 Feb 28, 2008.

"I came across an old article from the FMCA magazine yesterday.  August, 1983 pg 51. cont. on page 160.  FMC Overheating. Very interesting. Nasa ran some engine bay temp tests using 9 sensors mounted around the engine bay. they ran a 400 mile trip and recorded 300 degrees above and forward of the carb. They recommended a dual exhaust system which after installed brought the temp in that spot down to 160 degrees. This was done with 90 degree ambient temp. ..."  - Correspondence with Bill Sitton (President FMC Owners Club), Aug 8, 2012.

...end quote.

There are two temperature related items: one is the temperature of the air in the engine compartment at various locations, and, secondly, the temperature of the air passing through the radiator which is what is germaine to the cooling of the ENGINE coolant. 

There are reasons to look at the temperature at various locations in the engine compartment.  At the top of the engine in front of the carburator is one of them as that will possibly affect carburator performance and will also affect the life of the wiring and connectors that run across the top of the fire wall in that location.

However, the temperature at that location is NOT engine compartment temperature.  It is the temperature of ONE POINT in the engine compartment.  Based on your information, it was one of NINE locations where the temperature was measured.  What was the data for the OTHER EIGHT locations amd what were those locations?  The location that you have referenced most likely has very poor air flow as there is solid metal on the top, front, and bottom of that location. Air to the rear is also blocked by the carburator.  I would expect that location to have a high air temperature.

You have also noted that by changing from the original large muffler to a dual exhaust system the temperature in the quoted location dropped from 300 plus degrees to approximately 160 degrees.  You did not qualify your statement as to the applicability of the data only pertaining to those coaches that still run the original muffler and do not have a dual exhaust system.

This is what you have asked of me: "FMC Owner Test of air temp in Engine Bay ? Who ? What was FMC Serial # ? When ? Test results are available where ? Just where was the thermocouple(s) ? Pictures ?"

I hereby ask the same questions of you as where are the tests etc. that support your position that drawing air from the rear COOLS THE ENGINE better than the original configuration.  You have set up your coach with the arrangement that you propose ("I have a 20" alum blade steel hub stock Chrysler SUCK fan on my #120 ... " ); however, you have NOT provided any actual data as to actual performance.  Do you have any documented performance data with YOUR coach? At what speed? How many miles? Ambient temperature? Engine compartment temperatures? Engine coolant temperature?

Getting back to my original statement that I disagree with your statement that "... (tries to cool 230 deg radiator water with 300 deg + air heated by the exhaust manifolds) ... I have not changed my mind and still disagree with the implications of that statment as I feel that the quoted support material does NOT apply to the air flow that cools the engine.  That air flow temperature data probably was part of the eight data points NOT discussed in either the article nor by Jim Black.  It is those data points that are meaningful when it comes to COOLING THE ENGINE.  Jim Black was a good salesman.  One of the things that he sold was dual exhaust systems!

I have operated three FMC coaches: 1046, 386 and 87.  All three were properly cooled and operated at 180 degrees engine coolant temperature with the original pusher fan which pulled air out of the engine compartment, passed it through the radiator and then out the rear.  That could only happen if the the air passing into the radiator was much cooler than the engine coolant and much cooler than what you have alluded by your single data point.

I also find it interesting that new coaches today, that have rear engines, use either a side mounted puller fan or a rear mounted PUSHER fan.  To my knowledge, NONE use a  sucker/puller fan that draws air from the rear and pushes it into the engine compartment.  It appears that the engineers at Fleetwood (and other manufatures) still conclude that with a rear facing radiator, the best configuration is to use a fan drawing air from inside the engine compartment and sending it through the radiator and out the rear of the coach.

I await your road test data and recommend that others do the same before changing the fan setup in their coaches.

A cool pusher,

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hemi354az
Posted 2015-05-16 11:31 AM (#2713 - in reply to #2712)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Extreme Veteran

500
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona

Hey Stephan,

It is NOT my DATA or story, but was written by Jim Black and apparently repeated in the FMCA Magazine Article (according to Bill). Yes, there apparently were 9 thermocouples. Since no data was volunteered about the "other" 8 TCs . . . they might have been even hotter than the one cited ! 50/50 either way. I too pick data that supports my position, but don't draw conclusions about missing data. One man's guess is as good as another. I cited two written comments that anyone can see in the case of Jim Black, and perhaps someone can find a 1983 copy of the FMCA magazine. I told a conversation between myself and Errol McGill that he told me about #311.  I suggest things are not what they seem. For every FMC that reportedly runs fine, there is one that runs hot. (No, I have not done a survey of each and every FMC about running temps . . . the statement is a generality, but I think reasonable) Other than the Jim Black/FMCA "one point data" there is NOT ANY OTHER TEMP DATA. You disagree . . . OK. Maybe my suck fan will cool the carburetor.

My "suggestion" without my own data, is as valid as any other "recommendation" without data. 

Push/Suck Air ON ! Lou #120

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fmc708
Posted 2015-05-18 10:19 AM (#2715 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan



Veteran

100
Location: Soquel, CA.
If one wanted to install some temperature sensors to do some testing, what sensors would they need to get? I would be kind of interested in checking the air after the fan, but before the radiator (and then again as it comes out of the radiator).
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byegorge
Posted 2015-05-18 12:36 PM (#2716 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Veteran

1002525
Location: Olympia, Washington
An 'Air Charge Temperature Sensor' as used on most all modern computer controlled vehicles should suffice. While you are at it pick up a 'Barometric Pressure sensor' or 'MAP' sensor (manifold absolute pressure) get a few, spread em around. It would be nice to have atmospheric pressure values/differences as well as temperature values. I agree with Stephen you can cherry pick your data to back your position and the carb area has lousy airflow and I would expect high temps. Personally if I am told there are 8 sensors I require ALL 8 values before I will make a decision. "I've got 8 answers but I am only letting you see 1", bullshit! If you want to make it real exciting stick a temp sensor between the valve cover and exhaust manifold that will give you some storys to tell. 300 degrees F. doesn't seem near so hot now. Engine compartment temps are all over the place, a manifold tucked in tight with no air flow will push 1,ooo degrees F. While the intake air temp might go as low as 20 degrees above ambient temp. If you are collecting data too much is always better than not enough. The intake snorkels do not pull air from the engine compartment but ambient air from in front of the grill.
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byegorge
Posted 2015-05-18 12:49 PM (#2717 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Veteran

1002525
Location: Olympia, Washington
Nobody mentions airflow, it doesn't matter what the temps are if the air doesn't move. Mythbusters tested tailgate up vs tailgate down on a standard pickup expecting down to return better milage. They were wrong, seems with the tailgate up it traps a rotating pillow of air in the bed thus smoothing the airflow over the back of the cab. So Lou you were jet mech, what adversely effects airflow? My knowledge is limited to hand out the window of a moving car.
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hemi354az
Posted 2015-05-18 3:59 PM (#2718 - in reply to #2716)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Extreme Veteran

500
Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona

Duh . . . while I'm at it picking up several "Air Charge Temperature Sensors" and several "MAP" sensors . . . just what gauge or readout do you recommend I pick up ? Should I get a gauge/readout for each sensor ? What connector should I get, or are they all the same ? Thanks for your expert recommendation.


With respect to the so called BS "1 out of 9" data . . . take it up with Jim Black and/or the FMCA Magazine, not me. I just called attention to it. It's been there since 2008 and 1983 and no one seemed to think it was BS until now.


Lou

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byegorge
Posted 2015-05-19 5:34 AM (#2719 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Veteran

1002525
Location: Olympia, Washington
Now Lou I do not disagree with the test or the result just the methodology. I have no recommendation for gauge or readout nor do I have a recommendation for what clothes you should wear or food you should eat those are all decisions you must make on your own. Expert? Really? Coming from you that means a lot to me, so tell me what is my field of expertise? Greg asked: (what sensors would they need to get?) My suggestion was for a cheap readily available sensor that I am familiar with. Now I am sure there are other sensors out there but I don't know so I don't say. Now as an ex jet mech you could no doubt suggest some complicated expensive jet sensor that you are familiar with. Again I don't know. "It is not your data" but you seem more than happy to repeat it. History is full of examples where test results are falsified at the frontend the falsified data is accepted and repeated over and over again until it is Gods truth. And yes it is pure BS! Do 9 times the work, buy 9 times the parts pick the one result that backs up your position and discard 89% of the test results. An 'expert' Publishes the result (based on 11% of the data) in a noted national magazine. Over 30 plus years every Tom, Dick and Harry repeats this 'expert' data until it is written in stone (ever tried to erase etched stone Lou? Call attention on Lou. PS: I am still waiting for my field of expertise.
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B. Sitton
Posted 2015-05-19 8:30 AM (#2720 - in reply to #2719)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Extreme Veteran

100100100252525
Location: Ignacio Colorado
Yes George, charge temp sensors would work. An ohm meter would have to be the gauge needed. Or a volt meter if a 5 volt supply is available to run to the sensors. That is if Chrysler charge temp sensors from late 80' and 90's are used. Voltage values are available to correspond to temperature. I'm sure the same is true of newer sensors but I am only going out on a limb that I know.

Back when I was growing up on a cattle ranch we spent most of the day "out standing in our field". In the city that must translates to "park it". Not dissing you George just having a bit of fun.

Having traveled many miles having to stop every hour to add oil on my first FMC engine I will say nothing in the engine compartment could be just 20 degrees over ambient air temp. Have to wear heavy gloves just to pull the dipstick. Also added a remote oil fill to stay away from the oven. I miss those days as now after half a day in the driver seat I realize I miss those little stops to stretch the legs.
Bill

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byegorge
Posted 2015-05-19 1:14 PM (#2721 - in reply to #2695)
Subject: Re: oem pusher fan


Veteran

1002525
Location: Olympia, Washington
Aah-yes the leg stretches. Don't forget about the arms, half a day sawing the wheel back and forth they deserve a rest also. I was thinking modern car with the temp example trying to find the extremes. I have never seen a 'cool' 440 engine compartment in anything, they have always been stinking hot. I also have spent time out standing in the field, but I have never been referred to as an 'expert' (a has-been drip under pressure) before. Now I'm curious, what field? Inquiring minds want to know or was that inquiring gnomes want to mine I can never remember. Shortly after I bought #506 it was parked behind the shop with all 3 engine doors open. 2 of my buddies were looking at it, I came out the back door of the shop all I see is ass! And they were definitely not the 'nice' type. I made a promise to myself right then and there, to never ever get caught in that position. Not exactly a flattering pose for a 'Kodak' moment. Google has 'street view' FMC's version is 'engine view'.
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