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General Discussion -> Mechanic's Corner | Message format |
Eprobst![]() |
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Contributor Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma | Hello, I am very new to forms but I am going to try this out and see what everyone thinks I should do. My wife and I got our fmc on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/271783641750?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&s... on our way home we blew the head gasket, it has the 440 still in it. we are trying to have it towed home now. should we just pull this motor and put a new diesel in or just rebuild the one in it? | ||
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hemi354az![]() |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() Location: Scottsdale, Aridzona | Where is your FMC NOW ? Where was it going to it's new home ? The engine in your FMC is gasoline powered. It is NOT a diesel. It is a "custom specialized installation" to change to a DIESEL engine and I doubt if you can find anyone to do it. Replacing a blown head gasket in not that big a job for a good repair shop. | ||
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Eprobst![]() |
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Contributor Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma | I have been looking at rv's for a few years now and fmc just looked like the best deal for the long term. We picked up our FMC in Arizona and drove it over the mountains it seamed to run about 190 - 220 on the temp and run fine down the road it did feel like I was always over steering. we drove about 1000 miles and the fan belts when out and the engine over headed to about 250 maybe just over on the gauge. the oil was clean and only lost about a gallon of antifreeze. After that I could not get it started so I go it to a shop were they wanted to put a starter in it so I let them. We got it started but it sounded like it was missing on at lest two cylinders, pulled the plugs and one was misfiring, I was adding lucuis gas treatment to the fuel and could see it on the plug. We started a compression check, cylinder #7 had 110psi #5 had 30psi when we got to #3 ether the battery was dead or the starter would not engage so he stopped and tested the radiator fluid and said there was exhaust gas in the fluid. at that point he stopped and said the engine needed to be rebuilt and his boss would not let him go any further so I am trying to get it home now about 350 miles away Amarllio TX, to Tulsa, OK The engine is the 440 it came with it looks very clean and does not look like anyone has mess with it. | ||
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dkarnath![]() |
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Elite Veteran ![]() ![]() Location: Medford, OR | The ebay add says the engine was completely rebuilt 3k miles ago? New pistons and all! Did it come with receipts? I'd be pissed... | ||
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lagunacat![]() |
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Contributor ![]() Location: Prescott, AZ | Yea I'm with dkarnath. You should focus on getting money back. Follow up with EBay., they have a buyer protection. | ||
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Eprobst![]() |
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Contributor Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma | I gave him cash so I am sure I will not get it back, and I really like it so I would hate to give it up. that rebuild was four years ago and he lives in Alaska so he said he would send the receipts to me so I took the chance. | ||
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5Dollar![]() |
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Veteran ![]() ![]() Location: Bethune, SC | I think your problems came after your purchase more than they did before. It is not unusual for a 440 to need belt tension adjustment when it is run after sitting. As a matter of course, it is a good idea replace the belts and hoses on a newly acquired vehicle, no matter what the old ones look like. It is some kind of right of passage. I cannot think of a time when I did not have a problem when I did not make the replacements. My guess is that your problems are cylinders 4 and 6 or 3 and 5. These are the areas of the engine that get the hottest in an overheating situation. The heads are both probably warped and need close inspection. When a starter is used as it sounds like this one was used, they usually overheat and burn out. When you replace this one, get the small Nippo-type starter. Ask for a starter for a 1992 Dodge Dakota V6. Be sure to remove the wiring lug extensions on the starter or it will not fit. You will see what I am talking about when you examine the new starter. It is a small gear reduction starter that spins a 440 much better than the large starter. My suggestion is to either have the coach towed ON A FRONT WHEEL LIFT TOW RIG, DRIVE SHAFT REMOVED, OR EVEN BETTER, ON A LANDOLL TYPE TRAILER. There is no front axle, even though a tow truck driver may try to make one. Lifting from the rear is a sure way to screw up a good motor home. You can expect to pay from $4 to $6 per mile. If you can find a mechanic where you are now to fix it, you can save the towing. The costs should be about the same to fix it or tow it. You should also have the exhaust manifolds surfaced. I really do not feel you have a claim against the seller. You drove the coach 1,000 miles and only had trouble after loosing the belts and overheating the engine. There does not seem to be anything to contradict any information in the auction. You passed through mountains without incident until you threw the belts. The fact that you do not have milky oil shows you have a tight engine. Let me know if I can be of further help. I have had about every problem you can have with these geriatric coaches. Henry | ||
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B. Sitton![]() |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Ignacio Colorado | Henry has hit the nail on the head. It sounds like the engine failed because of belt failure. 1,000 miles trouble free did not change because of a faulty engine. When the temp gauge passes 250 the wallet comes out. I know it is hard to see a bright patch in this dark moment, but another owner only made it 100 miles on route home with his new coach and it burned pretty much to the ground. You still have a nice coach, Yes you may need another engine. It is doubtful just head gaskets were affected. When the heads are off cylinder condition can be assessed. Bill | ||
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dkarnath![]() |
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Elite Veteran ![]() ![]() Location: Medford, OR | Yeah Henry is right on, I miss read that.... Depends on your budget...For all we know you have a few bucks in the bank.. Have it towed home and do your dream diesel conversion... If your on a tight budget, have the mechanic dump all the water out of the block, pull all the spark plugs out, before they spin the engine over, make sure they crack the oil drain plug on the pan to see if any water has settled on the bottom of the pan and drain water out. Do a compresion test on the drivers side head, hopefully those numbers are ok, pull the damaged head, check it for warping etc, R&R the head, put the head back on, new 15-40w oil, and belts, drive it home. Im on a budget...so I guess thats what I would do. | ||
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Eprobst![]() |
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Contributor Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma | when I go to the auto parts store what engine should I say it has so I get the right top end kit | ||
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dkarnath![]() |
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Elite Veteran ![]() ![]() Location: Medford, OR | I use 1972 Chrysler Newport for parts... Head on! Thanks Lou! | ||
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B. Sitton![]() |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Ignacio Colorado | First you need to be sure which 440 you have. Tapered seat spark plugs? My 2nd FMC had the wrong heads but the right block with the cooling passages. I tell the parts person it is a 1974 440 in a motorhome. Let them pick the make as FMC will get them lost. | ||
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B. Sitton![]() |
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Extreme Veteran ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Ignacio Colorado | Cars don't have the cooling passages in the head gaskets so the head set will be different. Has to be motorhome! | ||
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BigRabbitMan![]() |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Eprobst - 2015-04-08 8:24 AM when I go to the auto parts store what engine should I say it has so I get the right top end kit I would pull the head and do the inspection before buying anything. Having blown two head gaskets at different times myself, that is the first step. Both times, in my case, the cylinder walls were damaged as well so buying parts ahead of time would have been a waste of money.I concur with the recomendation to have it towed home (as recomended above) and then you can take your time having it repaired correctly and completely. Most likely the engine will have to come out. That will give you the opprotunity to do other "things" within the engine compartment while the engine is out. Two things I would reccomend is to use a foam can and go around the connection between the coach body and the top and sides of the engine compartment to seal and air leaks that may have developed over time. I would also have the radiator disassembled and rodded and cleaned befor you put it back. You could also inspect and repair/replace/organize any electrical wiring that could use attention. These coaches are great on the road, but, as with ANY motor home they need things done to them. Sometimes it is big things, but with proper maintenance most are small things. Repair and then ENJOY!!! | ||
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dkarnath![]() |
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Elite Veteran ![]() ![]() Location: Medford, OR | What they said!! lol #184 had car heads...#850 has the peanut plug heads...I forgot about that. Kinda a big deal when buying head gaskets..hehehe. Im going back to my hole. | ||
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BigRabbitMan![]() |
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Expert ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Cottage Grove, OR | I would add that, in my opnion, you purchased it for a very reasonable price so you should have some room, financially, to do the repairs fully and completely. Enjoy your ride and we will see you at a future FMC rally where you can give us the complete story after it is complete! | ||
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Eprobst![]() |
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Contributor Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma | I want to say think you all for the responses! this fmc and really nice and I think this guy really tuck great care of it! I even found three sets of everything like plug wires, points, fuel filters, plugs and oil filters, coils with receipts in the box from napa I take this as my fault I should of had my eye on it better, it was just running so well thru the mountains I just hoped to get it home before i did all that stuff i was going to do too it. | ||
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fmc708![]() |
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Veteran ![]() Location: Soquel, CA. | I think you got a good deal too and it will be well worth it to fix it up right. I am in the somewhat annoying habit (annoying to me) of checking my temp gauges about every 15 seconds, but I am a bit paranoid...and usually towing a car. | ||
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Eprobst![]() |
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Contributor Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma | I just wanted to say we got her home!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 | ||
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dkarnath![]() |
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Elite Veteran ![]() ![]() Location: Medford, OR | You need to go into a little more detail than that!! Glad you made it. Tell the story.... Dan #850 | ||
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giantart![]() |
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Funny story -eProbst- when I bought mine, I had to drive it about 125 miles home. It was a Be-aah-utiful clear day, sun shinning high and only a slight cross breeze. Now I was aware that it had steering issues but had NO idea the fun I was about to have! So this is a two-lane major highway with wide, level grassy shoulders. The seller tells me that it goes best at around 60mph. I cruse right on up to 60, with plenty of power, and get ready to roll on home. NOPE! Next thing I know I am going from one side to the other, across both lanes and then some. I am scaring the crap out of everyone, including myself, but oh no, I can do this! Well I hung on for dear life, right up until a semi decides for some insane reason to pass me on the inside lane. Needless to say, in just a split second, I was now in off-road mode and mowing down all kind of grass at 65mph! So here is how I solved the 'walking all over the road' or "feel like I was always over steering" issue with my FMC. And I hope I have my +s & -s straight here, but I believe FMC's call for a setting of -5deg Castor. This causes the wheels to be tilted back of center(Front to back), and puts the steering 'In front' of the mechanism. This makes the wheels lead(I call it searching) instead of trailing the steering mechansim. Once I changed the castor to +5degrees, I can steer it with one finger. Drives like a true dream! Hope that helps you. ol' #215 > 'We ain't dead like Jimmie Dean, we just keep on truckin' and makin' a scene! | |||
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