Since I am staying in my coach part of the time when going to Gilroy to work on the engine change, I need the refrigerator to work properly.  It is a compressor type refrigerator so it will only work on electricity.  Last summer it wasn't working properly and, using a trusty multimeter, it was determined that there was excessive voltage drop between the domestic batteries and the refrigerator.  It had 13 volts at the battery, but barely 11 volts at the refrigerator - not enough for proper operation.

To correct the situation the decision was made to run a new, heavier wire from the battery to the refrigerator and solve the problem.  Easier said than done!

I have created a photo album of the same name as this thread where photos and discussion of how the project went is discussed.  It got complicated enough that we were not able to finish it in one day and so will continue it on my next visit in a couple of weeks (taking time out for my Aunt's 90th birthday celebration!).

The domesic wiring in that area of the coach will be much better than original when we get done.

Denny,

Yes, I expect that correcting the voltage situation will correct the poor operation of the unit.  It did work well when I first installed it, but that was in the winter.  I am going to also install a larger fan on the condenser coils that are on the bottom of the unit I have.  I purchased a unit with the bottom freezer which makes the fan more critical than if you have a top freezer as the condenser coil on mine is rolled up under the box and is dependent on the fan for cooling air. 

The fact that it has both a compressor and a fan drawing current at the same time is where the problem lies in my case.  The compressor would switch on and run and then when the compressor discharge pressure would build up to the point that the fan would turn on, that additional current draw would cause the voltage to drop to a level that the compressor would shut off.  It would just cycle back and forth.  Correcting the connection problem will allow the unit to see full voltage all of the time and it should work as designed.  The top freezer models have a conventional condensing coil up the back of the the refrigerator and do not need the fan.

When we get the wires back in, I will give it a try and we will see.  I will let you know how it works out.  I do like having the 12volt all electric compressor type refer (which is how they were originally equipt by FMC) over the absorbsion unit.  No requirement for leveling and not posssible to have gas fumes and that is important given my wife's sensitivity to fumes.  That fume sensitivity is the reason I have also removed the gas stove and oven (will start a tread on that later) and am replacing them with a microwave/convection oven unit and an induction cooktop in place of the gas cooktop.

I have added some more pictures showing the installation of the new wiring for the 12 volt units in the front, left segment of the coach.

The good news is that the refrigerator (which is what started all of this) cooled down to 38 degrees in just a few hours and seems to be holding the temperature very well.  It now has an extended run cycle followed by a much longer off cycle which is how it is supposted to operate.  I might say that while it is all electric, it uses only 55 watts of power so the coach batteries can support an extended run on just the batteries.

We need hotter weather for a full test, but the present performance with the afternoon sun on the refrigerator side of the coach is very promising.

On to the next project!!!