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Veteran
Location: Kingsley Michigan | Looks like I slipped on the ole calculator and thanks to Les questioning the numbers---I have to give you an update of ---and once again--to error on the high side--2 cfm per revolution of the motor will be close enough to do the math in your head for figuring on an electric system. Four 14" fans rated at 2240 cfm, drawing 10 amps a piece staged across a range of temperatures with one being on constantly should do the trick. The Radiator face measures 28 x 30 so these puller fans mounted on the back side should work well.
Thanks Les for doubting the proir numbers---
Barn |
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Contributor
Location: San Clemente, Ca. | Barney,
Why would you have puller fans on the backside of the radiator rather than on the front pushing the air into the radiator?
Ron |
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Veteran
Location: Illinois | Barn-
Now it seems logical that at 3000 RPM engine speed, we would have 6000 CFM thru the engine fan.
That is why a team effort always provides the full answer to the project.
And I still am LOOKING FORWARD TO YOUR report on how the fans perform at road speed, with load, ad infintum.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to ALL - Leslie Hoagland |
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Contributor
Location: San Clemente, Ca. | Barney,
The only Procomp 14" fan I can find is #PC2053. I is listed as only 2000 CFM and that is as a pusher. What part number are you looking at that is rated at 2240 CFM as a puller?
Ron |
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Veteran
Location: Kingsley Michigan | Ron
I had to find a more efficient fans to get 4 of them over the 28 x 30" spot and still approach the general overall cfm of our present system--I know when I pulled my radiator down to access the motor for rebuild--that even though I clean the engine side regularly as best as you can with the present limited access---- that 30% was blocked with dirt--mostly to the right and upper side of---looking at it from the fan side. Will get back to you with the brands with higher cfm later--
Barn |
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Veteran
Location: Illinois |
Barn -
I have found from experience that if you will wash your radiator , engine, and compartment with a kerosene/GUNK mixture using only a hose spray with HOT water that you will clean the rad when the water runs clear.
Then if you will follow the RINSE with a liberal spray of KEROSENE ONLY so that all surfaces are flooded with the Kerosene,then rinse this off and you will have a slight coating of KEROSENE on all surfaces which will allow future washing to be accomplished faster and easier.
I have done this for near thirty years and find the radiator fins benefit greatly from the KEROSENE COATING.
All the Best this Christmas Season - Leslie
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Expert
Location: Cottage Grove, OR | Quoting Barney: "--that even though I clean the engine side regularly as best as you can with the present limited access---- that 30% was blocked with dirt--"
While this characteristic of rear mounted radiators is persistant and widespread across many different rear engined coaches, I did not have it listed as one of my reasons to shift the radiator to the front. Given Leslie's instructions on how to clean the radiator and the ramifications of doing it in my driveway (the only place available to me) here in a very evironmentally sensitive state and neighborhood, I think I should make it reason number five. With the radiator in the front, there would not be any need to clean beyond what a nylon screen in front of the radiator as a bug/leaf guard would entail and 100% of the radiator would be functioning at all times. It also apears that it could definately be smaller than the rear one as Barney has been operating with only 70% of a radiator any way!! |
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Veteran
Location: Kingsley Michigan | Thanks for the replies to the ole radiator/cooling problem. Yes, cleaning in the upper insde section of the radiator is a back breaker so I won't miss that part. I try to stay away from the high chemicals as the smell doesn't seem to go away-----but the dirt does soo---------Simple Green is my second choice when around the storage area and other tree huggers--of which I kind of agree---
The Idea of "Ram Air" doing a lot of the work is becoming of greater appeal to get away from the power robbers and time bandits. That one site Stephen linked me to of Flex a Lite and others talk about 30 to 50 horsepower to run the mechanical fan no matter whether it is justified or not. The strain on the belts and bearings must be enormous and contant to speak nothing of the noise, vibration and in our case of the design--an unnecessary pain to maintain. To add to the reasons there is also a fuel savings associated with the thinking.
I'm sure we will all be busy with family and friends over the next couple of weeks and then---as Midwest VP of this great group, get ready to rally and travel to some new, fun and interesting places where memories will be created----Hope you all have a great and wonderful Christmas and New Year!
Barney and Connie |
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Whoops on radiator fan CFM!~!~!
