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Mechanical gasoline fuel pump as used on Chrysler 440 engine in FMC Motorhomes. This pump is available as the fuel pump for a 1978 Chrysler New Yorker at any auto parts store. These stamped sheet metal pumps are NOT rebuildable. New ones are relatively cheap, $15 - $30. Be sure to change the rubber hose that feeds this pump as well. If you still do not get gas to the carb . . . change the rubber hoses at the TOP of the FUEL TANK. There is a Photo Album about that. | If you can get the pipe plug out, the pushrod will slide out of the block and look like this. The shinny part is where it slides in and out in the machined passage in the engine block. The ends are interchangeable, their is nothing special or different about either end, although you might see a little different wear pattern of the ends. The overall length shoud be 3.25 inches. If it is shorter than that by 1/8th inch or more, obtain and install a NEW pushrod. | This is what you see with pump removed. Note pipe plug below hole for fuel pump. The silver thing inside the hole is the fuel pump pushrod. | This photo is from the front of the engine looking back toward the flywheel. The timing chain cover has been removed. The silver fuel pump pushrod has come further out of its hole and has slid all the way down to the pipe plug that was shown in the first photo. The pipe plug seals the hole that was made for the push rod when the block was machined. The push rod extends up to a lobe on the camshaft that pushes the rod out. The spring in the fuel pump pushes the rod back via the fuel pump lever arm. Do not attempt to remove the pipe plug on the outside of the block. Some previous owner tried and buggered the hex hole in the plug on the block for the pictures. |
Just sticking the new pump back onto its mount pad most often results in what is pictured. This photo shows the fuel pump lever HITTING the push rod which slid farther out of its machined passage when the pump was removed. You might get the bolts started on the pump but if you tighten them down, you will probably break the fuel pump casting at one of the ears. The problem is the push rod has slid way out of its machined hole. | Photo of my finger reaching in the fuel pump hole on the side of the block, and pushing the push rod back up into its hole and up till it contacts the camshaft lobe. Note that the pushrod is sticking out its hole about half an inch. That indicates it is on the base circle of the camshaft and NOT on the lobe. If it sticks out farther than that, bump the starter to rotate the engine a little so it does not stick out any more than what is shown. Be sure you pull the coil wire before you bump the engine starter, to keep the engine from starting on any fuel left in the carb fuel bowls. Nothing bad will happen if you rotate the engine too far and the push rod is still sticking out too far. Just bump the starter again and check that the pushrod goes in about as far as shown in this picture. Even if the push rod keeps sliding out, you want to be able to push it in as far as shown. | Photo of my finger putting HEAVY GREASE, not oil, but heavy grease, on the push rod and the metal around the push rod hole. Do not worry if you get a big glob in there, it will dissipate into the engine oil when it heats up. That heavy grease is to KEEP THE PUSH ROD UP IN THE MACHINED HOLE FOR THE ROD. Wheel bearing grease is suitable and stiff enough. You need to work pretty quick on a warm engine as that grease won't hold the push rod forever. Be prepared to start putting the fuel pump on soon after this step. | Looking in thru the fuel pump mount hole shows the grease holding the push rod up in the block. |
Now, when you start inserting the fuel pump, the pump lever clears the push rod, because the heavy grease is holding the push rod up in the block. Do not forget to put the GASKET on the pump before insertion. | (1 Comments) And as the fuel pump flange is tightened against the block, the lever fits up aligned against the retracted push rod. If the cam lobe was holding the push rod out a little bit, you would have to depress the pump lever arm a little as it goes tight against the block. That can be done but it makes aligning and starting the bolts harder. Better to get the push rod all the way in on the base circle of the cam. Note that I am just holding the pump aginst the block. As the engine rotates, the cam lobe pushes the rod out against the lever that pumps the fuel. As the engine continues to rotate the spring in the fuel pump pushes on the lever which pushes the rod back up to the base circle of the cam, until the lobe comes around again, and pushes the rod out against the lever again, and on, and on, and . . . | ||
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