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|#477 Cruiser Engine|
|Author: Duramaxer (Show all albums)|
Qiuck check just to be sure timing marks on fluid damper will be correct after assembly.
My improvised piston stop, just to find true TDC. Markings on camshaft drive and balancer are spot on. Cam timing is good and seems to bee within a degree or two of the cam card, according to my measurements. The DIY degree wheel and a metric gauge setup on a non solid lifter had some limitations. Also converting the lift back an forth between metric and imperial added to the challenge. But I'm confident cam timing is good for this application.
DIY degree wheel from a print, some cardboard and clear vinyl. Lots of great printable templates (and useful calculators) found on http://www.blocklayer.com/text-templates.aspx
The nice rebuilt "Cruiser" heads in place, with the original valvetrains. New lifters on the new camshaft of course and also new pushrods to replace the tired 40 year old ones. At this point I thought something was very wrong. When I turned the engine over I could feel it "binding" at a certain point of rotation. That feeling! I could not believe it and just went inside the coach to watch Junior play a hockey match online. After the game my head was working againg,and I found straight away one of the bolts on the flex plate was scraping on the engine stand. What a relief!
Edelbrock Performer (2191 not RPM) dual plane intake manifold in place. I have been asked if I have assembled the engine "dry", Looking at the pictures I can understand why. I like to keep things very clean and tidy but of course it's important lube things up the right way during a engine build like this. So I have been using Sealed Power Assembly Lube on all bearing surfaces, the camshaft drive, lifters, rockers with shafts, oil pump and other. Also the cam lobes and lifters contact surface got a generous amount of graphite lube on them. Pistons and rings was installed with 10-30w engine oil. Valvetrains will be manually lubed with engine oil after the paint job and engine primed with the oil-pump when finished and also before start up. Other stuff I use for this rebuild ; For sealant, where needed Loctite 5926 engine silicone or Permatex "Aviation" sealant. I prefer Loctite tread sealant over tread seal tape. Tread lock is also Loctite. Anti seizure on exhaust manifold gaskets, bolts, spark plugs and more is Molycote antizeize paste. And sometimes a little plain old bearing grease goes to keep gaskets in place during assembly. Head gaskets go on dry. Also I have a 50 liter tub with a caustic sulution for paint stripping on misc.parts. I also go thru 15-20 liters of parts-cleaner and some 3-4 liters of Acetone for this job. Paint will be Eastwood (high temp) and Bill Hirch (Mopar blue)
Next before completing the assembly is cleaning, masking and a paint job.
My suggestion for clamping and routing the wires up and over the valve cover with drop exhaust manifolds. Just a small ss bracket attached to a longer valve cover stud.
Oil priming the engine
Good oil flow on both valvetrains
Innstalled the new oil pump drive and the old distributor. Timing checked at TDC of compression stroke of cylinder 1.
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