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|#846 - Cummins Swap|
|Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)|
Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).
Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.
This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.
More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.
Ready for final weld and gusset(s).
I plan to reinforce the old 'hoop-mount' for good measure later on, but I may also end up running the exhaust through it again - like the good old days - so for now it'll have to wait.
Next: after the engine mounts were welded and attached to the engine - with the engine/trans blocked in final position - and the engine mount cross-member temporarily bolted in place, I tack-welded both 2"x3"x 1/4" box steel horizontal mount support bars in place (yep, when you design your own shit - you get to name it!)
Engine mounts (coach side)5/16" plate ready to weld. As I've discovered these mounts need to be revised to hold the engine an inch or so higher, I'm showing these now to stay in the order of how I arrived at where I ended up. Does that make any sense? I'll include dimensions in the final drawing when I get to it.
On the plumb cuts (top down)of the OEM beam I decided on a 5-deg. angle to match the same angle of upright lines of the arch beneath. Not so 'blocky' looking I figure.
IMPORTANT: Forgot to mention how I managed to do this while maintaining the OEM length/position of the assembly. BEFORE you cut/weld anything (and the cutlines around the beam are marked) do the two bottom side(in pic) cuts first before you weld on the lower (arch) center section. Remember to also subtract the thickness of the end cap material you chose, if you cap them. These two undercuts will make cutting out that center section a breeze after the new arch is welded on, ensuring that OEM dimensions of the unit are maintained.
First mod done. Measurements taken with the engine/trans sitting in place with the mount sitting in position (plumb under bolt holes in chassis). As it turned out our focus on installing the engine/trans as close to 'level' as possible, while ensuring sufficient ground-clearance, caused two issues: the 7" estimate to allow oil pan clearance was inadequate and the power steering pump is contacting the top corner of the end of the 4" beam. I will post a drawing of the finished mount when the corrections are made.
Extraneous stuff hacked off, ready to be surgically altered to hold a Cummins. There's pro's & con's to choosing to go with the OEM engine mount. One 'pro' is that you can leave the chassis support for the port-side mount in place and use it as is. One potential 'con' is that I'm not an engineer so there's considerable uncertainty (risk) that goes with this route. So I'm thinking 'over-build' to mitigate the extra torque and 400-lbs that the 12-valve brings to the party. Preliminary measurement dictated that the center section of the main beam needed to be lowered about 7" to allow clearance for the oil pan. What follows is how I addressed that.
OEM FMC engine mount cross member - unmolested.
The aforementioned coveted Chrysler 727 transmission mounted park-brake drum with 23-splines, before the drum is machined off.
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