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#846 - Cummins Swap
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)

Howdy Folks!

Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).

Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.

This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.

More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First210 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

Oil seals: 2 x #A1205L766 1 x #A1205K635 Pinion & Output yoke nuts: 1 x Pinion nut - #1227C939 2 x Prop shaft nut - #1227Z936

6-new U-joints from MP Parts in SC.

In the end, I had to make a couple of additional notches over the two nuts closest to the bedbase wall. Drilled a jigsaw pilot-hole from above where I anticipated each of the nuts were, then with a metal blade jigsaw, cut out all four corners.(Note: there's hoses and shit under the floor so be certain of blade clearances BEFORE you cut) This will be a real easy floor fix when I'm done, and the procedure saved me huge time and effort.

Took measurements from underneath using the forward end of the fiberglass trans tunnel (end of tape butted against it) to figure where to cut the floor. If you do this, use a skilsaw with the blade depth at about 5/8" as the sheetmetal is directly beneath it.

My friend and project supervisor, Liam. He's a Cummins-nut same as me and is also shop-foreman at a large Chrysler dealership in town. Helps keep me and my 'ideas' grounded in the real world.

This lift was invaluable to enable me to do this on my own. I'm on roadbase/gravel so an 8ft strip of 3/4" plywood made the perfect runway under the coach to get it out then back in again.

Did a bit of a number on the threads. In the end, I took it to a machine shop and they chased the threads and advised that I lose the thick 1/4" washer in favor of a thinner one, which they supplied. This gives the pinion nut more new threads to bite into.Problem solved.

Extractor for stripped pinion yoke nut. 1" coarse nut with 3/4" nut welded to that then both welded to the yoke nut. Turned the 3/4" x 3" bolt inwards - to apply outward pressure to the yoke nut - as I simultaneously backed it off; all over in 5 mins.

This pic is out of order as it should be at the end of diff stuff. Here, it's ready to reinstall with the new seals and coat of paint.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First210 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

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