Search | Statistics | User Listing | Member Roster | Coach DB Forums | Albums
FMC Owner's Forum
Home -> FMC Owner's Forum -> Albums -> View Album

You are logged in as a guest. ( logon | register )

#846 - Cummins Swap
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)

Howdy Folks!

Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).

Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.

This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.

More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First207 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

Finally I took a 9/16" drill and hollowed out the interior of the large brass fitting so that the probe would be adequately exposed to coolant around it.

Got the exhaust roughed out and tacked together today. Would have finished it but ran out of gas for the mig.

Had to make the turn off the exhaust brake with 45/deg and 90/deg aluminized steel elbows, which had to be cut down to work; however, they barely made the turn and only after I ran the 4" pipe completely through the hoop and then put the 7" Magnaflow on immediately after it. I wanted the muffler inside the hoop but no go, for now.

Here you can better see how close the bottom of the 4" pipe is to the bottom of the hoop. There's a 3/4" space under it, that's all. Still needs the hangers put in place to keep it put.

Here you can see better how close the hot-side intercooler pipe comes to the exhaust pipe. The cast elbow off the turbo was designed to run forward to the rad area on the Ram Cummins trucks, whereas in this application it needed to be turned about 180/deg the opposite direction, where things got crowded. But it should work.

Coolant temp sensor as recommended by VDO to work with the OEM gauges.(Part #323-057). 1/8 - 27 NPT to 300'F. As seen in the previous pics, an adapter can be made from the 12 valves' 3/4" NPT OEM sender with some simple machining. I did it with a drill press, a 1/8"-27 NPT tap and a couple of drill bits. Haven't got the rad in yet so will comment if it actually works when I finally get to run it up to temp.

Oil pressure sender #VDO-150AP. Recommended by VDO tech to work with the OEM gauge.

10 - 180 ohms (important). Also 1/8"-27 NPT. Small spade to dash idiot light, large spade to gauge 'S' terminal. Also have the option for ring terminal connection.

Fuel level sender & float assembly. Thought I'd throw this in as I forgot to earlier with the tank re & re thing. My fuel gauge was always erratic with the needle bouncing around wildly, providing only occasional glimpses of what was actually going on in there.

This close-up shows the gist of the issue.

This little pecker is the culprit. It used to live inside the housing providing a connection between the windings and the sender wire upwards to the top tank connection. I tried drilling it out with the idea of using a very small nut/bolt/washer thing to reattach it. Didn't work.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First207 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

Return to viewing all photo albums

Go to HomeRunning MegaBBS ASP Forum Software
© 2002-2022 PD9 Software
(Delete all cookies set by this site)