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#846 - Cummins Swap
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)

Howdy Folks!

Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).

Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.

This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.

More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First237 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20]

Extractor for stripped pinion yoke nut. 1" coarse nut with 3/4" nut welded to that then both welded to the yoke nut. Turned the 3/4" x 3" bolt inwards - to apply outward pressure to the yoke nut - as I simultaneously backed it off; all over in 5 mins.

This pic is out of order as it should be at the end of diff stuff. Here, it's ready to reinstall with the new seals and coat of paint.

For the rear wheels all that is needed to get back on concrete is to loosen 8-bolts and slide the wheels off. Boom-done! The four front tires are rated @ 1200/lbs. the two rear swivel wheels are rated @ 700/lbs. Will be looking at doing the 60lb valve-springs and KDP pin next.

Gave some thought to convertibility. For the front wheels all that is needed to rig it for rolling on concrete is to flip the leg arm so the steel wheel is down.

1100 lbs. Managed to move it a considerable distance by myself. Would have been impossible with the small OEM steel wheels on the picker.

My latest incarnation of an ATV cherry-picker. Without the advantage of pavement or concrete, this is a workable solution.

Well, there they are. 20 lbs in the left and just over 40 on the right side resting on the wheels. Can't see any obvious deflection in the arms yet. Will check in later to advise on how these worked out. Note: another potential issue that I won't be able to confirm until I get the wheels on the ground again and roll it, is the amount of clearance I left between the outer prop-shaft U-joints and the spring-arm mount beam; it ended up being very close and I hope it don't become an issue or I'll have to fab-up new arms with more clearance. Once the engine swap is done I should be able to go to the weigh scales and weigh the front and back axle loads with the air-spings inflated vs deflated to determine weight transfer effectiveness. This was a tough job for me and if it works out I hope it helps someone, someday, sometime... somewhere.

Air test: only put 20 lbs in the drivers side bag as the wheels ain't back on yet.

Will be adding a trick 'dual' needle pressure gauge in the proximity of these fill valves so I can see at a glance where the pressure is at. Will wait till I do the final clean-up of the firewall as there's likely more stuff to get rid of as the 12-valve's ancillary equipment necessary to run it is little more than a battery, a keyed starter circuit, fuel shut down solenoid and the heater grid for cold starts.

To get me up and running I decided to go the easy route on the air-control. Simple schrader-valves mounted in the engine house (pass side) just ahead of the access door. Easy access.

Ready to plumb in the air-lines.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First237 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18] [19] [20]

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