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#846 - Cummins Swap
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)

Howdy Folks!

Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).

Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.

This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.

More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First210 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

Three coats of VHT and she's GTG.

Decided to weld up my own exhaust tip. Cut @ 30-deg then held by my trusty magnets.

A generous coating of VHT (2000-deg) exhaust/rust paint on all the welds and she's good to go in.

Final welding of the exhaust which, as usual, required some grinding to clean it up. But I am slowly getting better at it. The 4" flange adapter that gets it onto the HX-35 came from Pacbrake. Then there's a 45'-deg and a 90'-deg aluminized steel elbow(s) that both needed to be cut down to accommodate the tight radius to make that sharp turn out the ass end. Finished with a short run of 4" aluminized pipe to the Magnaflow muffler.

A small nut/bolt/lock wsher replaces the old brass rivet that failed. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the final fix with the two nut/bolts holding the two halves of the housing together. All I can say is don't over-torque the bolts/screws you use to do this as the housing is plastic. So far the gauge is working again. Will know more later.

Here you can see the interior of the windings housing. You can see the four remnants of the plastic attachment tabs which I simply cut with a sharp blade to detach the plastic housing from the cover lid. Note the spring on the float rod. I took that off and gently stretched it slightly to increase contact pressure on the windings. Move the float rod through its range of motion. I decided I'd bolt the plastic housing back together with the metal cover plate with small #6 SS nuts/bolts/wshers. I did it with 2 of them. If you try to fix yours, you need to move the float rod to establish exactly where you can safely drill and insert bolts through the assembly without affecting float-rod travel.

This little pecker is the culprit. It used to live inside the housing providing a connection between the windings and the sender wire upwards to the top tank connection. I tried drilling it out with the idea of using a very small nut/bolt/washer thing to reattach it. Didn't work.

This close-up shows the gist of the issue.

Fuel level sender & float assembly. Thought I'd throw this in as I forgot to earlier with the tank re & re thing. My fuel gauge was always erratic with the needle bouncing around wildly, providing only occasional glimpses of what was actually going on in there.

10 - 180 ohms (important). Also 1/8"-27 NPT. Small spade to dash idiot light, large spade to gauge 'S' terminal. Also have the option for ring terminal connection.

Oil pressure sender #VDO-150AP. Recommended by VDO tech to work with the OEM gauge.

Coolant temp sensor as recommended by VDO to work with the OEM gauges.(Part #323-057). 1/8 - 27 NPT to 300'F. As seen in the previous pics, an adapter can be made from the 12 valves' 3/4" NPT OEM sender with some simple machining. I did it with a drill press, a 1/8"-27 NPT tap and a couple of drill bits. Haven't got the rad in yet so will comment if it actually works when I finally get to run it up to temp.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First210 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

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