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|#846 - Cummins Swap|
|Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)|
Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).
Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.
This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.
More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.
Final weld done and ready for paint. I designed this to bolt directly to the port-side engine mount plate. The 'triangle' formed with the support gusset and the horizontal t-brace to control horizontal movement make it rock solid. Again, 3 - pics previous shows it installed.
Port-side rad support tacked together in place now ready for final weld. 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle iron with a 1" x 1" x 1/8" t-bar cross brace back to chassis frame.
Tip attached with 3 heavy sheet metal screws. Boom-done!
Grabbed 2-universal hangers and modified them to work. This rearmost one is hung from the drivers side rad support I designed. The one ahead of the muffler hangs from the battery tray.
Three coats of VHT and she's GTG.
Decided to weld up my own exhaust tip. Cut @ 30-deg then held by my trusty magnets.
A generous coating of VHT (2000-deg) exhaust/rust paint on all the welds and she's good to go in.
Final welding of the exhaust which, as usual, required some grinding to clean it up. But I am slowly getting better at it. The 4" flange adapter that gets it onto the HX-35 came from Pacbrake. Then there's a 45'-deg and a 90'-deg aluminized steel elbow(s) that both needed to be cut down to accommodate the tight radius to make that sharp turn out the ass end. Finished with a short run of 4" aluminized pipe to the Magnaflow muffler.
A small nut/bolt/lock wsher replaces the old brass rivet that failed. Unfortunately I didn't take any pics of the final fix with the two nut/bolts holding the two halves of the housing together. All I can say is don't over-torque the bolts/screws you use to do this as the housing is plastic. So far the gauge is working again. Will know more later.
Here you can see the interior of the windings housing. You can see the four remnants of the plastic attachment tabs which I simply cut with a sharp blade to detach the plastic housing from the cover lid. Note the spring on the float rod. I took that off and gently stretched it slightly to increase contact pressure on the windings. Move the float rod through its range of motion. I decided I'd bolt the plastic housing back together with the metal cover plate with small #6 SS nuts/bolts/wshers. I did it with 2 of them. If you try to fix yours, you need to move the float rod to establish exactly where you can safely drill and insert bolts through the assembly without affecting float-rod travel.
This little pecker is the culprit. It used to live inside the housing providing a connection between the windings and the sender wire upwards to the top tank connection. I tried drilling it out with the idea of using a very small nut/bolt/washer thing to reattach it. Didn't work.
This close-up shows the gist of the issue.
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