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#846 - Cummins Swap
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums)

Howdy Folks!

Going to give this another try as my first attempt didn't go so well on the 'Diner-conversion' thread (Will update/edit that soon).

Started my Cummins swap by pulling off the bumper; only took better part of an hour. That sucker is HEAVY! Better part of a 100 lbs I bet. Will be looking to knock substantial weight off that baby while still retaining a 5000 lb towing standard.

This will take a while as it will unfold as time and resources permit, so please be patient.

More pics and hopefully some videos (FMC-TV) to follow.

Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First210 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

Took measurements from underneath using the forward end of the fiberglass trans tunnel (end of tape butted against it) to figure where to cut the floor. If you do this, use a skilsaw with the blade depth at about 5/8" as the sheetmetal is directly beneath it.

In the end, I had to make a couple of additional notches over the two nuts closest to the bedbase wall. Drilled a jigsaw pilot-hole from above where I anticipated each of the nuts were, then with a metal blade jigsaw, cut out all four corners.(Note: there's hoses and shit under the floor so be certain of blade clearances BEFORE you cut) This will be a real easy floor fix when I'm done, and the procedure saved me huge time and effort.

6-new U-joints from MP Parts in SC.

Oil seals: 2 x #A1205L766 1 x #A1205K635 Pinion & Output yoke nuts: 1 x Pinion nut - #1227C939 2 x Prop shaft nut - #1227Z936

Once you pull the pinion assembly out (carefully so as not to damage or mix up the shims) you'll need to separate the front flange to get at the pinion oil seal. Do this by threading 3 bolts into the holes provided and turn them in slowly equal in turns as best you can to part the flange. When you're done, clean the parts of old gasket/seal material and use a good quality RTV sealant to make a new gasket as they are no longer available. I found a cheap pulley wheel to use as a punch to drift the new seal into place. Worked perfectly.

Took a bit of looking but I found a cheap pulley wheel for an electric motor etc. that fit perfect to gently drift/tap the new oil seal into place. Be careful not to let it get tilted out of whack.

New seals and yoke nuts done, now torque the yoke-nuts back and get this sucker back home where she belongs. Note on the pinion nut torque: After a lengthy discussion with Gord, at WestCoast Gear in Vancouver BC., I took his advise and nearly halved the previous torque spec (from 600 ft/lbs down to 350 ft/lbs) on the pinion yoke nut. He's rebuilt hundreds of gear cases for all kinds of heavy equipment and he was positive that 600 ft/lbs was far more than necessary. Again, this only his opinion and I happen to agree. What you chose to do is your business.

NOTE: I'd be remiss if I didn't add a reminder about the imperative confirm that the KDP (killer dowel pin) and the exhaust valve springs have been done on your 12 valve. The latter only required if you are going to run an exhaust brake. We did the exhaust valve springs (60-pounders) and confirmed the KDP pin had been addressed.

Here you can clearly see the KDP just behind the black bolt that was threaded into the aluminum casting to block the KDP from coming out of the hole then dropping down into the gears. This is a different way to remedy this as the usual kit involves using the hex bolt to the right to fasten a metal restraint clip over the pin. The way this was done, conceivably could be done without even removing the timing cover if you knew exactly where to drill and tap the hole.
Show Newest Photos First | Show Oldest Photos First210 Photos - Page : [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11] [12] [13] [14] [15] [16] [17] [18]

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