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ADD FORWARD 38-US GAL. WATER TANK TO LATER COACH. | ||
Author: andy1canada (Show all albums) IMHO: for it's attributes there are also a few shortcomings with these coaches; including, a rather modest potable water carrying capacity. One way to remedy this on the later coaches - IF YOU ARE WILLING TO OR ALREADY HAVE DITCHED YOUR AUTO-A/C FROM YOUR COACH - is to rip out the fans & condenser's etc from the lower forward compartment to make room for another tank. Water is super-heavy, too, and the extra weight forward can even improve handling some. I'm posting this to show that it can be done - but I urge any who'd venture to go here to give it careful consideration before proceeding. The photo album will take it from here. Terry #846 |
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Finne'! "Get yer motor runnin'..." | Install done. The last part went better than the beginning. With the exception of not being able to use the fiberglass housing top-cover (because I made the tank 1/2" too tall) it all went the way I wanted. The tank is still insulated on top regardless. Here you can see the pathway to the round hole in the cross member for the water lines and the drain ball-valve etc. The bottom sheet metal original cover served well to hold the tank up. I added a 1"x1" cross bar as well for extra support. | ||||
Be certain to get all hoses & wiring up and out of the way of both the tank and the steering rack! | You'll have some cutting and grinding to do to get this prepped for the tank. | As part of the clearing out of the old A/C components from the cavity where the new tank will go, you also need to make a passage for the new water lines to get to the tank. I found this conspicuous looking sheet metal plate tacked on the main cross-member and discovered that sure enough - this is the passage that was used on the early coaches to get water to & from the lower forward tank. It's a bitch to reach and get opened up so jack the coach high to make it some easier. | Here it is in the shroud with sheet foam around it ready to go in. I cut open the angled corner of the shroud and riveted in an SS angle piece to better fit the new square corner on my tank. I checked in advance to make sure all steering-rods/components would clear it safely. | ||
Top finally on and tank full with a clear poly spout so I could watch it for a day or more to see if it went down. I did, barely, but there was no water on the ppr towels or table. Good to go. I was so DONE with welding this thing. Outside measurements, roughly: 27" x 32" x 10 1/2". NOTE: there is another 3/4" (spin-on) fitting on the bottom of the tank in addition to the two visible. Top= vent; Side= fill; Bottom= drain & pump feed. | First water test, first of MANY actually. Notice the paper towels under each corner. Proved a good way to quickly highlight any leaks if/when they happened. And oh... did they happen. I'm ashamed to say how many times I had to fill, drain, dry out, grind-off, weld again, refill then repeat this tank. So I won't, suffice to say I now know why folks buy the roto-molded tanks or get a pro to weld them up a new one. | The corner welds turned out to be the MOST challenging. | |||
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